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The High Atlas

Tuesday, February 13th, 2007

We’re back in Marrakesh now after spending the last three days in the High Atlas, one of the great highlights of the trip so far.

We didn’t end up doing exactly what we’d planned, as we were derailed by snow (to be explained). On Sunday, we started out from Imlil on a glorious day and walked for about four hours to the picturesque village of Tachedirt, 2314m (over 7000ft) above sea level. We spent the night at the refuge there with some English and French guys on a ‘ski touring’ trip. (Ski touring, from what I gathered, is just like regular skiiing but without all the comforts of skiing – hotels, chairlifts etc. Essentially, they climb up a mountain and then ski down it.) The refuge was pleasant and since it had solar panels on the roof, it was the only building in the village with electricity.

The next morning we hiked for about four hours uphill to the Tizi Tachedirt pass at about 3200m. This was the best part of the hike as it was another nice day and the scenery was wonderful. There was quite a bit of snow on the ground, so it was fun (for at least one of us) to trudge through it when it covered our path. At about 11:30am we got to the pass and had fantastic views in all directions. Unfortunately the other side of the pass was completely covered with snow and it was very hard to know where our path lay or whether we could continue on the 1300m descent without equipment. After much deliberation we decided to turn back, and we made it all the way back to Imlil at about 6:30pm – making it an 11-hour hike for the day, covering about 20km or so (some of it knee deep in snow!).

We were a little disappointed that we didn’t make it to our original destination of Setti Fatma, but since the pass was the highest point on the hike, we felt as though we saw the best parts and didn’t need to risk it. We were so lucky with the weather, as it was clear and sunny the whole time and not that cold at night, and I was able to take the shots I wanted. So, in all I was really happy with the experience, and not having a third day of hiking has allowed us to have a sort of ‘rest day’ here in Marrakesh today as we’re aching a fair bit.

We’ve only got a couple of places left to visit on the Atlantic coast before we leave Morocco on the 17th. Then it’s onto ‘real’ Africa…

Anyway, I’ve put up a few shots of the Atlas mountains here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jungle_boy/

A room with a view

Saturday, February 10th, 2007

For US$14 at the Hotel CTM, we got no smiles from the staff but a room with an unbeatable view over the Djemma El-Fna, the most famous place in the entire country and the pulsing heart of Marrakesh.

The Djemma is one of the world’s most fabulous (and largest) squares, and by day is famous for snake charmers and for having some of the best and cheapest orange juice in Morocco. It comes alive at dusk to the beating of drums when dozens of food stalls are set up, storytellers turn the square into a stage of their own and the most touristy aspect of the Djemma, the ‘water-sellers’ (in reality photo posers not much different from the ‘gladiators’ outside the Colosseum) have gone home.

Aside from the square, Marrakesh has some beautiful buildings (most notably the 12th century Koutoubia mosque and the Saadia tombs), but the old city itself cannot match the medieval atmosphere of Fes. Even within the walls of Marrakesh, most streets are wide and have motor traffic (even ‘Hop On, Hop Off’ buses as though it was Paris!). Still, it’s a great place and I can see why it’s so popular. And for all the tourists here, the touting is not as bad as Fes: we walked for 30 minutes from the bus station right through the Djemma El-Fna with our backpacks and not a single hotel tout came up to us the whole time! (If you’ve been to Morocco, you’ll understand why this is a pretty historic achievement…)

So, we only have a week left before hitting steamy West Africa, so we’ve got one more cold experience left in us: the High Atlas. This afternoon we’re going to Imlil, from where a nice three day hike awaits, insha’allah. The CNN forecast for the next four days in Marrakesh is for two days of ‘sunny’ and two days of ‘partly cloudy’ so hopefully we’ll get clear skies in the mountains and be able to enjoy the views.   

The end of the Moroccan winter…

Thursday, February 8th, 2007

...insha'allah.

It's been warmer and sunnier the past few days now that we're gone further south, and the cold of Meknes and the snow (!) of Fes seem in the distant past (I forgot to mention that it snowed ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Sahara

Sunday, February 4th, 2007

We've just returned to civilisation (if Erfoud deservers such a lofty title) after a few days in the Sahara. We took a two-night camel trip to a place called Erg Chebby, which is the main part of the Moroccan ... [Continue reading this entry]

Our morning at Volubilis

Tuesday, January 30th, 2007

We went to see the Roman ruins at Volubilis about a week ago, but I haven't had a chance to write about it until now (and the story is much better with photos). The day before we went was ... [Continue reading this entry]

Return to Fes

Monday, January 29th, 2007

My best and most lasting memories from my brief trip to Morocco in 2001 were of Fes, one of the greatest and largest living medieval cities in the world. I was fascinated but also completely overwhelmed by the old ... [Continue reading this entry]

Meanwhile, here in Morocco…

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007

We’ve been in Morocco for four days now, and since I’ve just found what will undoubtedly turn out to be the fastest computer in Africa, it’s about time I caught up with my blog (two new posts below!) and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pre-Africa thoughts and ideas

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007

We’re done with the Gulf now, so Africa it is. All things going well, we plan to spend four months in Africa, visiting three countries in North Africa (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia) and four in West Africa ... [Continue reading this entry]