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It´s been a while

Wednesday, June 28th, 2006

Yes, I think I slipped into a black hole since arriving in Peru (maybe I should re-phrase that). Well before leaving Bolivia I spent half a day trekking out from Copacabana to Yampupata along the lakeside and around through the woods of the mainland. From Yampupata I had to barter a decent price to get a boat over to the Isla del Sol, which ended up being a row boat. The island has legend of it being the birthplace of the Incas, or certainly their sun god.

I spent a night over on the island, rose the next day to trek about it before catching the ferry back to Copacabana. This town did not endear itself to me when I arrived back at my hotel at midnight to find it locked up and no-one answering the bell. With the prospect of freezing my bollocks off sleeping in the park with the dogs for the night I wandered around town trying to find somewhere else open with no joy until I bumped into the mexican girl who worked in one of the restaurants. She was my life saver as she not only took me round to her mates hotel who had a spare bed, but they also plied me with weed and wine and it turned out to be a better night than if I´d returned to my cheap-ass room

The next day however, I really had to escape this shitty town and caught a bus to Cusco in Peru. Two and a half weeks in Cusco, most of which is unprintable, other than making it up to Machu Picchu for a healthy break, from where I had one of those experiences that you´ll always remember, looking down over the site and the location around it blew me away. No photo* can do it justice, but this was a moment when I realised that the view was what I had in my mind when I´d previously thought of South America. Despite all the hype around it, and my cynical nature, it turned out to be every bit as stunning as it´s made out to be.
Machu Picchu (courtesy of Buena Vista 2005 on Flickr)
After returning to Cusco for one last weekend of debauchery, I caught an overnight bus out of the Peruvian party capital down to the slightly more sedate Arequipa. We visited the Colca Canyon in the first few days, saw a condor (the main attraction), headed back to Arequipa and did some museum stuff. Then I said goodbye to Ruth and Alison who went on ahead while I chose to hang around for a little while longer, partly due to my hangover from the Saturday night, though it may have something to do with the girls of this city! Well I´m currently holding fort running the bar in the hostel for a short while, gives me something to do and cheaper living, meanwhile I get to see many of the people I met in Cusco passing through. While my scheduled plans for Peru have all gone out the window, life´s good and that´s all that counts right now 🙂

*Photos are a sore point as I left my camera on the train to Machu Picchu and lost it. This is what happens when I´m made to get up at 5am! I´ll try to add some from other people in the future.

Monkey Business

Tuesday, May 30th, 2006

After a bus trip along what must have been the worlds second most dangerous road we miraculously arrived in Rurrenabaque (Rurre) early morning, then onto a boat two hours later in the pissing rain on our way to the start of our jungle tour.

The weather improved from here on, and with our guide, Mr Miyagi of Karate Kid fame, we set off from camp to climb through thick vegetation, across rivers, upto to high lookout points and out at night to try to find some of the ever-elusive wildlife, which prefers to stay hidden by day. We managed to find very little but wandering around in the dark with nothing more than flashlights was fun of a scarey kind.

The Mexican singer Pedro Fernandez sizes up a tree in the jungle
The Mexican singer Pedro Fernandez shows us which hand he prefers to wank with in the jungle

After 2 days in the jungle we returned to Rurre for a night before heading out the next day for a 3 day pampas tour. The Pampas are the level wetlands that back onto the jungle and cross over the border into Brazil, where they get renamed the Pantanal. This was the place to come and see wildlife. After several hours in a 4×4 we boarded a wobbly little boat which would be our transport for the next few days.

The tour took in cruising down the river looking at the many birds, turtles, aligators etc., then out at night to shine torches in the aligators eyes, and even to catch a baby one for voyeuristic purposes. Another day we went out trudging through foul smelling swamp water in search of an anaconda (and water bourne tropical diseases). Didn`t find an anaconda, but lovely walking through shitty water and grasses all the same.

The cutest rabies carriers you`re ever likely to meet
The cutest rabies carriers you`re ever likely to meet

The last day we did a spot of piranha fishing, saw some gay pink dolphins and had it all topped off with a monkey invasion on the boat. The tours had been fantastic, and after returning to Rurre for a night we took a cheap flight back to La Paz, where I stopped for a few days and said goodbye to Rico, Ben and Dan who were on a tighter time schedule. Bumped into some guys I`d met in Santiago though, small world that it is here on the gringo trail.

Now down at Lake Titikaka, which spans the Bolivia/Peru border, at a place called Copacabana (I don`t think the Rolling Stones will be playing at this one). Heading out to the Isla del Sol (mythical Inca island) tomorrow for a couple nights before heading on into Peru friday to Cuzco.

La Paz and a nice little cycle ride

Wednesday, May 17th, 2006
The La Paz electricians are on acid Wired in La Paz After catching another dodgy bus out of Cochabamba we finally managed to make it to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Struggling to reach La Paz

Friday, May 12th, 2006
I`ve been as slow getting round to updating these pages as the internet is here in Bolivia, so here`s a couple of quick catch up entries. After Potosì we took a taxi to Sucre. It seems ridiculous, borgeouis even, but with the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Dynamite, alcohol, coca and lung disease: A Miners Life

Sunday, May 7th, 2006
Since arriving in Bolivia I´ve covered a lot of ground faster than I normally travel. I met a group of guys waiting for the bus to Potosi and have travelled with them up to now, and I think it´s thanks ... [Continue reading this entry]

From desert to snow-covered mountains

Saturday, May 6th, 2006
Valle de La Luna Valle de La Luna bathed in the light of the setting sun  Myself and the aussie couple, Andrew and Megan, booked ourselves onto a two night/three day 4x4 trip across the ... [Continue reading this entry]