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Little Switzerland

Monday, April 17th, 2006

Swiss Alps 

Bariloche (San Carlos de Bariloche to give it it´s full title) in the north of Argentinian Patagonia is a beautiful small city in the mold of a Swiss Alpine village, located next to the huge lake Perito Moreno. Many of the buildings are built in a wooden chalet style and the area is host to many activities for the outward-bound, as well as a fair number of inward bound too (translates as good nightlife)!

Thursday Mick and myself took mountain bikes out for the day to cycle around several of the lakes that make up the seven lakes district here. Once we´d negotiated the dodgy main road we hit the dirt tracks to discover beautiful tree-lined lakes and mountains. Lunchtime we stopped for a beer in the small village of Colonia Suiza, which as the name suggests is a Swiss colony here in Argentina. Who´da thunk it!

Lovely Lakes
View of the lakes from the mountain top

We took a chairlift up to the top of one of the mountains and took in the 360 degrees panoramic view over much of the seven lakes district – photo to follow in a few days. After clocking up around 60km on the bikes I was pretty saddle-sore but a fantastic day all the same, and made it back before dark just in time for happy hour 🙂

Saturday we gave a second chance to a band who had not impressed us first time around earlier in the week. Le Gran 7, who bill themselves as a ska band had been a bit more jazz funk on wednesday, but come saturday in the more suitable venue with a good crowd they came up with the goods and left us baying for more. The night was topped off for me by meeting an Argentinian girl, who thankfully is an English teacher so the conversation was not along the lines of “me gusta this, no me gusta that” as it had been in Mexico, much to Gwyns amusement.

Come Easter sunday we thought it only right and proper as good god-fearing people to go and see some dodgy punk bands. The first couple were suitably untalented and painfull/amusing at times, but it came good with the headline band Los Magios, who had a drummer that could keep in time and a singer who wasn´t tone deaf.

Children´s entertainers hang out here
An interesting marketing ploy in Bariloche – popular hangout of ´children´s´ entertainers´

This was a fine way to say goodbye to my two consistant travel companians of late, Adam and Mick, who now head back to Buenos Aires, while I head on north to Mendoza in the heart of the wine region tomorrow. The Patagonian adventure has sadly come to an end, but it´s been a great time that will stand out in my travel memories.

Onwards and upwards…

Glaciers, fjords etc

Wednesday, April 12th, 2006

Perito Moreno glacier 

Spent close to a week in El Calafate, the highlight of which was seeing the Perito Moreno glacier in the national park. It´s a huge monster of a glacier and very impressive, though we didn´t hang around for too long indulging in the local sport of ice watching due to the rain starting. Luckily we had a hire car so we took off when the weather turned and drove around the rubble roads to see more of the park, which was pretty spectacular in itself. Other than that the time in El Calafate was pretty chilled out, waiting around to take the Navimag ferry.

The Navimag is an old cargo ship converted to take cargo as well as passengers, and was due to leave from back in Puerto Natales over on the Chilean side of the border. Rather than hang around that oddball town again we took a bus back the same day as the ferry was due to leave, only to find it was delayed for a day due to bad weather. Another day in Royston Vasey it was then, woohoo!

The ferry finally departed with it´s passengers (some human, some animal) and we´ve just spent the last four days sailing up through the Chilean fjords in Patagonia (Patagonia as a region covers both Argentina and Chile hence all the hopping back and forth across the border). The weather wasn´t the best, but managed to see seals and dolphins swimming by along the way, and what could be seen of the scenery was pretty impressive. One day we had to leave the fjords and go out around the coast on the Pacific ocean, which meant a rough ride but it added some exitement to the trip, though those puking might not agree.

Shipwreck as seen off the Navimag

The last night provided entertainment in the form of bingo followed by a disco, a tragic comedy every bit as bad as it sounds, but it was at least amusing. After a rude awakening the next day to get us off the boat we struggled into the Chilean port town of Purto Montt. Christ, what a shithole, Puerto Natales – all is forgiven. A few hours to kill in this place and then onto a bus, back across the border to the civilisation of Argentina. Now in a town called Bariloche which is set on a lakeside with plenty of activities to keep us amused. Going to stay here at least until monday when the Easter holiday weekend finishes, then head north and leave behind this beautiful land of Patagonia.

Gwyn, is that spare Flickr account still going begging? I´ve used up my allowance on the free one so can´t add anymore photos until the start of next month.

Trekking through Chilean Patagonia

Friday, March 31st, 2006
Middle of nowhere  A Patagonian road sign savvy to current trends in Latin American politics After a tedious sixteen hour bus ride across bleak landscapes, dealing with border controls, a short ferry ride and stopping at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tierra del Fuego

Saturday, March 25th, 2006
Ushuaia proved to be a nice place to, quite literally, chill out; the temperature was pretty similar to what you´d be experiencing in the UK at this time of year. It made for quite a contrast to the hot weather ... [Continue reading this entry]

To the end of the earth

Tuesday, March 21st, 2006
Uruguay was just the tonic I needed. I visited the picturesque town of Colonia, just across the river from Buenos Aires for four days. Historically it was the port the Portuguese used for smuggling into Buenos Aires and it retains a ... [Continue reading this entry]