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Where’s the party?

Sunday, December 18th, 2005

It would seem that the local hippies have all trodden that well worn path across Asia and brought the joys of full moon parties to Lake Atitlan, Guatemala. The word around town is that they can’t hold it anywhere within walking distance as the towns’ mayor has said no, so instead they’re planning it on a beach somewhere else round the lake which will involve a boat ride to reach it.

After a night in the Freedom bar, drinking and dancing to a kick-ass band we head down to the dock for the much-anticipated boat to the party. There’s a lot of people waiting around and when a tiny boat arrives and is swamped by people it starts to look like it could be a very long wait. Meanwhile, while waiting, I meet a couple of greek guys, Nick and Sam, who seem rather pleased to meet someone who can speak english as they don’t speak a word of spanish. They turn out to be nice guys and we hit upon the great idea of walking to the beach where the party is., someone somewhere had told them it wasn’t too far, though it might take an hour or two. Looking at the queue for the boat this doesn’t seem like a bad idea so we head off.

Two or three hours later, after negotiating many hazardous paths through the woods, stopping to listen out for the music, we finally arrive at…a deserted beach still miles from the party having achieved nothing except still being alive. Oh what a familiar story from the free party scene. Still, we stopped on the beach and watched the sunrise, which was beautiful and one of the few I’ve seen since starting my trip. The journey back was a lot more pleasant, being able to see where you’re going helps, and arrived back into San Pedro early morning to be greeted by, yes of course, the pan ladies!

Festival in Chichicastenango

On my last day in San Pedro a group of us went up to Chichicastenango, a small market town in the Guatemalan highlands, reknowned for it’s market. As luck would have it they also had festival cellebrations going on with crazy colourful processions and fireworks assualting the senses. It was a really nice way to end my stay in Guatemala, for tomorrow I head off back into Mexico for xmas.

Pan-faced in San Pedro

Wednesday, December 14th, 2005

As our bus drew closer to Lake Atitlan you could catch glimpses of the lake from across the hills, but it doesn’t prepare you for the full beauty of the setting (neither can my photos) when you round the corner onto the road down to Panajachel, the largest and oldest of the towns around the lake. This is the place that the big hotels and the package tourists stay, so we took a boat across the lake to San Pedro, hippy central.

Lago de Atitlan from San Pedro

San Pedro is split into two halves, the main town being located up a steep hill, while all the lazy stoner backpackers are located around the waters edge, unable to make it up the hill until an ATM is needed. This small town is regarded as one of the best producers of coffee in the region, with harvested beans spread out all over the place drying in the sun. The other main cash crop seems to be weed, of which there seems to be no shortage. This might account for the slow chilled-out pace of life here, which is friendly and welcoming. It takes very little time to realise why so many backpackers have come here and never left.

One final commodity that is ubiquitous in this town, is the ever present ‘pan.’ Pan simply means bread, but here it seems to come in more of a cake form, usually mixed with anything from coconut and carrot to chocolate or pineapple, and they’re all good. I should know, I tried most of them over the course of the week. Whilst anyone who knows my weakness for cake may not be surprised by this, I blame it all on the strong-arm tactics of the women selling the pan. They know we’re all at their mercy after a hard days’ ‘recreation’ so what can you do when they corner you with a basket of warm fresh pan, I ask you! If I lived here for any length of time I know that I would become a rather fat pan-based man, stuffing my face daily, so I’d better not let it happen.

The lake itself is surrounded by hills and volcanoes, with settlements dotted all around the huge lake. Whilst the water looks beautiful and inviting to swim in, it’s only upon closer inspection, or in fact while I had my toes dipping in the water sitting on the edge of a dock, that you come to realise it’s not all that. I was enjoying the view, the late setting sun and a cold drink when I noticed Mr Hanky the xmas poo float past, only to be followed by the rest of the family. My toes came out of the water again pretty quickly and I made a resolution to not swim here, though this didn’t seem to bother the locals as they bathed and washed their clothes in it. There’s no proper sewage system out here so inevitably it all flows down to the lake, which is nice. I think you really need to find somewhere around the lake with no settlement nearby, or take a boat out to the middle to find anything like clean water to swim in.

Many faces from Antigua and beyond have showed up in San Pedro, even one of the first people I met in Mexico City at the start of my trip, a girl from St Pauls in Bristol as it happens, working in a local bar – it really is one of those places that everyone turns up at sooner or later.

Bloody Students

Monday, December 12th, 2005
Antigua Tuesday morning and it's back to school for me, but not much changes. I'm still the poor student who can't manage to get to class on time, do my homework properly or dedicate myself to my studies. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Trying to extinguish a volcano

Tuesday, December 6th, 2005
Sunday was my second night in Antigua and I went to watch films with Irish Liam, Kiwi Melissa, Italian Omar and Aussie Larissa - oh it´s a muticultural life on the road; I´ve met more nationalities in seven weeks than ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hola Gringos

Sunday, December 4th, 2005
On wednesday I took a tour from Livingston which involved following a couple of local boys around the town, through the graveyard, which was as unexciting as it sounds (I mean it was really dead), and out through the surrounding ... [Continue reading this entry]

Waiting for change

Tuesday, November 29th, 2005
The fun of sharing a dorm room wears thin at 3:30am when people are noisily getting up to take a bus to Tikal, Guatemalas most important and famous Mayan ruins. Everyone staying in Flores goes to Tikal, it´s just the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Across the border to Guatemala

Monday, November 28th, 2005
It took me a day longer than expected to leave Belize. I sat drinking coffee friday morning in the beautiful spot I´d found near San Jose Succotz and thought ´bollocks to it´ one more day, uno dias mas. Five people ... [Continue reading this entry]

Too hot to handle?

Thursday, November 24th, 2005
View across western Belize Well? I certainly am, thank you. I've just had a beautiful blissed-out four days in this little corner of paradise (San Jose Succotz, Cayo District of Belize). By day it's been hot and sunny, ... [Continue reading this entry]