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Across the border to Guatemala

Monday, November 28th, 2005

It took me a day longer than expected to leave Belize. I sat drinking coffee friday morning in the beautiful spot I´d found near San Jose Succotz and thought ´bollocks to it´ one more day, uno dias mas. Five people turned up thursday night so friday we all went tubing down the Mopan river nearby. The river was beautiful, though fairly fast flowing due to heavy rain the previous weekend, but that made it more fun. However saturday I really should make a move.

Saturday came and I did finally pack up and head on. I took a taxi the few miles to the border, went through border control no problem and eventually negotiated a means of travel to Flores. This involved a minivan with as many seats as could be packed in, then more bums on seats than there were seats! Whilst being packed into the back of this bus with people standing, still we pulled over to pack another family in – where will they go? Oh, in front of me, behind me, on top of me! It was fun in a funny sort of way and at least I had a window seat so I could see the shadow of my backpack on the roof to assure me that we hadn´t bounced it off on the pot-holed road several miles back.

I found the hostel in Flores fairly easily (it´s only a small place) and was finally able to breathe out and relax. The hostel is really nice with a jungle feel back garden/bar/cafe, covered with hammocks, playing good music and with a menagerie of wildlife. The two house dogs have recently had puppies and two of these still remain at the hostel. Those, the cat and two wolf-whistling parrots all fight for attention.

Flores, Lake Peten Itza

Flores itself is a little town, an extension of St Elena just across the bridge. It sits as an island on this huge lake and has a view to die for. I spent sunset (and beyond) on the lakeside with James and Corrine, a couple from the UK I´d met at the hostel, and we ate, drank and smoked until dark. James and Corrine have headed off today for Livingston, where I should be heading tomorrow and will hopefully catch up with them again. They´ve been to spanish school in the last few weeks and it´s improved their spanish incredibly and is quite an inspiration for me to do the same when I get down towards Antigua, but in the meantime I´ll continue to progress my pigeon spanish to stumble on: “Me travel Livingston tomorrow, bus when do you know? Please, thankyou” Hmmm…

Too hot to handle?

Thursday, November 24th, 2005

View across western Belize

Well? I certainly am, thank you. I’ve just had a beautiful blissed-out four days in this little corner of paradise (San Jose Succotz, Cayo District of Belize). By day it’s been hot and sunny, the sounds of the birds and assorted wildlife filling the air, while by night the place buzzes, quite literally, with the sound of the bugs. I’ve seen butterflies, tarantulas (pets not wild ones), bats, trails of leafcutter ants, dragonflies, big dogs (Tai and Chi!) and of course mosquitoes, or little bastards as I like to call them.

It’s been pretty quiet around here in terms of people. Jim, the guy who told me about this place back in Hopkins was here for a day or two, as was Sarah, a photographer from the UK who won a fantastic competition prize of a round-the-world ticket taking photos for a charity and the Rough Guides. Sarah and myself spent Tuesday going up to the local Mayan ruins, followed by frisbee golf round the woods (like normal golf but with a frisbee and without the wankers).

Since then I’ve had the run of the place, as the last couple days have been quiet with only my hosts John, Judy, Flora etc. for company, but this has been good to give me time to recharge my batteries and prepare for heading into Guatemala. I realised today, whilst swinging lazily in a hammock, that since setting off almost six weeks ago I haven’t been alone at all – I’m not complaining as it’s been the most fun I’ve had in ages, but I have enjoyed having a couple of days to myself.

Now that I feel ready to move on, it’s time to jump back on the bus and head down to the border and face the music with my atrocious passport photo once again. My rough plan for Guatemala is to head to Flores first, an island town on lake Peten Itza, then head south to the Rio Dulce river before going west to Antigua, where I may go back to school to improve on my basic grasp of spanish.

Belize has been a breeze in terms of language because it’s largely english speaking, which is nice but doesn’t help improve my spanish, so it’s time to switch my brain back to learning mode. Belize is also relatively expensive compared to Mexico and Guatemala. It has very little manufacturing industry of its’ own, so most commodities are imported, that and the ever-expanding gringo population (and us tourists) keep pushing the prices up.

The only ‘made in Belize’ products of note are the beer (Belikin), the rum (Travellers’ 1Barrel being my favourite) and the ubiquitous Marie Sharp’s pepper sauce (every dinner table has it). As much as I like Tabasco, the habanero pepper sauces here are amazing, and hot! If they’re not exported already I suggest someone gets on the case before I get home, as I can’t carry anymore stuff. They come in many varieties and strengths, one of the hottest is called ‘No Wimps Allowed’ and it comes with the warning:
“Keep out of reach of children
Avoid contact with eyes or skin
Do not play triks[sic] on the weak or elderly whit[sic] this sauce”
Hmmm, now that just gives the mischievous amongst us ideas!

Right, enough rambling, I’d better go and pack my bag and head for a new land, with new beer and new currency. The Belizean dollars have the Queen’s head on them despite gaining independance in ’81; oh the grand old days of the British Empire. Thankfully Prince Philip hasn’t come over here recently and made one of his hilariously bigotted remarks about the locals, or I’d really be in the shit!

The Pope Wears Prada

Tuesday, November 22nd, 2005
In order to get my news fix last night I was subjected to CNN, where I learnt that the Pope wears Prada! The insight into this revelation was provided by an 'expert' who said that while the Pope may well ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Monkeys Arse

Monday, November 21st, 2005
Just added some images to the previous entries so scroll back down to check them out. After the celebration day in Hopkins, myself and travel companion for the last week Laurie, went to the bus stop with conflicting info on ... [Continue reading this entry]

Feeling Sicky on the Hokey Pokey

Saturday, November 19th, 2005
I loved Caye Caulker, but I finally made it off the island. It was becoming a bit of a local joke where I would say i was leaving tomorrow and then people would see me the next day saying the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Caye Caulker – Go Slow

Friday, November 11th, 2005
Caye Caulker I've been in Caye Caulker for almost a week now, and think that it's time to make plans to move on. Life here is just too laid back and easy that I can see myself slipping ... [Continue reading this entry]

End of the tourist tour

Saturday, November 5th, 2005
After 2 very busy weeks crossing Mexico on the big yellow (come and fleece us we're rich) Tucan bus it all finally came to an end last Friday. Despite having had 2 occasions on the tour where I seriously considered ... [Continue reading this entry]