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Trekking through Chilean Patagonia

Friday, March 31st, 2006

Middle of nowhere 
A Patagonian road sign savvy to current trends in Latin American politics

After a tedious sixteen hour bus ride across bleak landscapes, dealing with border controls, a short ferry ride and stopping at every nowhere outpost en-route for food we finally made it into Puerto Natales, a very weird little port town on the Chilean side of Patagonia. It was not the best introduction to Chile, and when I went to find my mate Adam who I´d met back in Ushuaia, I found him on the verge of mental breakdown from arriving in the town a couple days earlier. Honestly, it was all a little bit too like Royston Vasey for my liking.

We made our plans for hiking in the Torres del Paine national park the very same day, got everything booked and ensured his mental well-being by heading off early the next morning. We had four beautul days of trekking and camping in one the most beautiful places I´ve ever been. We saw glaciers of blue ice, snow-capped mountains with the strangest formations and lakes of the brightest most unearthly blue. I can say little else right now as we only returned last night and got on a bus to get the hell out of Puerto Natales first thing this morning, so the brain is not firing on all cylinders right now.

We´re back on the Argentinian side again now in a place called Calafate, and should be here for close to a week, so my next objective (after getting thoroughly pissed for Adams birthday tonight) is to try to sort out getting photos back on here as they tell the story of these places so much better than I can.

At long last, some photos (more being added to previous entries in the coming week):

The brooding beauty of Glacier Grey (Torres del Paine)
Day 1: The brooding beauty of Glacier Grey (Torres del Paine)

 

Lake Pehoe 
Day 2: The weird blue waters of Lake Pehoe (Torres del Paine)

 

View of Valley Frances in Torres del Paine
Day 2: View of Valley Frances (Torres del Paine)

 

View from camp Italiano 
Day 2: View from Camp Italiano (Torres del Paine)

 

Near the end of the trek
Day 3: Lake near the final campsite (Torres del Paine)

 

The Towers
Day 4: View of the towers on the final day (Torres del Paine)

Tierra del Fuego

Saturday, March 25th, 2006

Ushuaia proved to be a nice place to, quite literally, chill out; the temperature was pretty similar to what you´d be experiencing in the UK at this time of year. It made for quite a contrast to the hot weather and beach time I´ve had of late.

Wednesday I climbed the hardest trekking trail in the Tierra del Fuego national park, in my nice new pair of hiking boots bought the previous day – nothing like easing yourself into these things. This and the fact that I´d not done anything trek-wise since Guatemala at the end of last year meant I was a broken man by the end of the day, hobbling back down in agony and exhaustion. It started uphill through the woods for a couple hours, then across some fairly flat peat bogs and then back to a fierce uphill climb up the scree slopes to the peak, but the breath-taking views of the valleys and lakes from the top were well worth it.

Tierra del Fuego
View from half way up the mountain (Tierra del Fuego)

The next day I felt like an old man struggling downstairs, so I took it easy with a boat ride down the Beagle Channel, which connects the Atlantic with the Pacific oceans. Although the trip was supposed to be about cheacking out the cormorants, fat lazy sea lions and some light house, I actually enjoyed the view of the Andean mountains from the water more. The next day I took a trip to the local aquarium, which was all very nice, and at times rather freaky, but ultimately more like the sort of aquarium you´d expect to find on Craggy Island.

Fat Sea Lion
Another hard day at the office

To the end of the earth

Tuesday, March 21st, 2006
Uruguay was just the tonic I needed. I visited the picturesque town of Colonia, just across the river from Buenos Aires for four days. Historically it was the port the Portuguese used for smuggling into Buenos Aires and it retains a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Falling down

Monday, March 13th, 2006
All is going well, I have a flight down to the southern-most city of South America, and indeed the world, booked for next monday, I´ve researched my short trip to Uruguay this week and just need to go to the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Buenos Fucking A!

Sunday, March 12th, 2006
Having crossed the border into Argentina last weekend, I came to realise what all the fuss was about with the waterfalls. I think I previously described them as ´nice´or something, but from the Argentinian side they were stunning. Lots of ... [Continue reading this entry]

Dam engineers with hard hats and hard-ons

Saturday, March 4th, 2006

After the rude awaking on monday morning, thankfully the day got better. The night saw most of the hostel turning up at a local carnival party, somewhere between a free party and a redneck ho-down, but an excellent night dancing ... [Continue reading this entry]