The Brel Chronicles

The literal translation of Buenos Aires is Good Airs, which is kind of ironic given what’s going on right now. The farmers, having recently given up their plight to restrict beef in Buenos Aires, have taken to burning fields. This essentially translates to thick smoke everywhere. As in the kind of smoke that burns your eyes and throat and causes highways to be closed.

The lowdown on what’s happening politically: Soy is the most lucrative agricultural product right now. The government introduced a new 30%+ tax on soy exports to discourage farmers from abandoning their old crops. The government’s position is that they are trying to protect jobs by ensuring diversification of the crops here. And the farmers, understandably, are looking to make as good a living for themselves as possible.

So we’ve moved on from pitying our lack of beef to hiding indoors, unable to leave the city for our scheduled trip to Cordoba. And don’t even talk to Mel about the 3 million chicks that had to be drowned because the farmers are restricting feed.

But…we still love Buenos Aires and Argentina…

I realize that as an animal lover, I’m supposed to be anti-zoo. But I’m not afraid to admit it: I normally really, really like them. 

The Buenos Aires Zoo, located in the heart of the city in Palermo is just a 10 minute walk from our condo. The zoo was built in the late 1800’s, back when zoos were purely for entertainment purposes, as opposed to their purported current goals of research, education and breeding.  

Walking through the gates, I’m initially impressed with the line-up of animals – 89 breeds, 350 animals, including elephants, lions, monkeys, zebras, a giraffe and a polar bear. The sounds of the city are just mere feet away and many of the area condos have views directly into the zoo. Wonder how much that adds to property value? 

Like in zoos all over the world, random local animals have decided to make their home at the zoo. But rather than pigeons, racoons and Canada geese, I am surrounded by beaver-like and tiny deer-like critters I can’t identify. Random giant birds are walking about everywhere. I’m quite excited.  

So there I am, snapping pics, when I start to realize that the caged animals don’t look particularly happy. OK, I always find elephants look sad, but it seems that at the BA Zoo, many of the animals are despondent, their little faces staring out at me with sheer desperation. Many of them are pacing back and forth. I find myself hoping that it’s feeding time - that must be the explanation for all this anxiety. 

The BA zoo has done their best to replicate original habitats for the animals – but they are extremely limited by space. 20 baboons live in a smallish cage. Monkeys are kept on a man-made island surrounded by water so that they don’t escape. Cool birds (yep, I still love them) are kept in cages no bigger than you’d see at a pet store. 

All in all, a heartbreaking day. Though I suppose it could have been worse – apparently a zoo outside the city sedates the lions so that you can have your picture taken with them…  

By the Numbers

• Number of chicken bones swallowed: 1
• Number of times Brendan talked about his chicken bone: 42
• Number of ... [Continue reading this entry]

1.  Public displays of affection are not only the norm in Rio, they’re kinda expected.  Sadly for B, Mel still hasn’t come ‘round.
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Trogon With Phase 1 of Operation Bird Discovery successfully implemented in Costa Rica, we have moved on to the second and more aggressive phase – Operation BD Belize. l have spent most the week stalking birds. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Caving Originally uploaded by pichemelanie Today, I continued the quest to conquer my fears. Up next: small, dark underground places, and, get ready for it….bats. Dressed as Sporty Mel once again, I donned my headlamp and ... [Continue reading this entry]

      We’ve spent the last 3 nights at the very unique and posh Rancho Pacifico, located high on a seaside mountaintop, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. We likened ... [Continue reading this entry]

After all this silly luxury I thought it was time to get down with the peeps. You know, keep it real. Otherwise known as the local bus. (Chicken-free) I assured Mel there was “hardly any” chance ... [Continue reading this entry]

   Titi Monkeys!  No matter how many times you see them, they’re still cool. No, they don’t come when called (not for lack of trying by Mel: “…mooooooonos, ven aca monos…” was her second Spanish phrase ... [Continue reading this entry]

We’re joined this week by SPF 85 guest, Sean “el blanco” Evans, as we take on the surfer paradise of Mal Pais and the hippie-lands of Montezuma. [Continue reading this entry]