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Memorial Day Weekend in Zion NP

Tuesday, May 31st, 2011

May 26th-May 30th

After an early start (we were up around 6:30), we arrived in Zion National Park around 10 AM and snagged the last free camping spot. People were already out in droves to celebrate this long weekend which kicks off summer (particularly in this area where the real summer is sweltering hot.) We were very lucky and got a cozy site next to the Virgin River, the river that carved Zion Canyon and created the beautiful scenery that we have today. The campground was crazy all weekend with people arriving around 6:30 in the morning to stake out how would be leaving. In fact, a carload of people sat outside our neighbors campsite for 3 hours before my neighbors woke up and told them that they were actually going to stay another night.

We were both a little tired from moving camp so often, but there were chores to do. After staking down the tent, we drove to nearby Springdale to stock up on groceries for the next four days. We knew it would be hard to move mid-weekend and find a camping site, so we decided to spend the four days in magnificent Zion. Zion was named by a Mormon settler who found sanctuary there (Zion is the Hebrew word for place of sanctuary.) We would have time to explore the park in depth and to relax a couple of afternoons. After lunch, we went to explore the visitor center and then followed a riverside path to the Human History Museum, which showcased how humans (from the Paiute Indians, Mormon settlers, and us today as visitors) have impacted the park. After another short hike from the campground, we relaxed with a couple of cold beers from the Zion brewery and played Scrabble. I don’t want to brag, but I did kick Fabien’s butt.

On Friday, we took the shuttle bus (the car traffic got so bad, they implemented an excellent and efficient shuttle) to some lovely sites on the scenic drive. The first stop was at Weeping Rock, so named because water seems to drip out from the sandstone rock creating a lush, green environment unusual for the arid landscape. At the same stop, we took another trail to Hidden Canyon. This was a serious hike involving passing some scary steep drop-offs. Fab and I passed pretty easily- we’ve been doing so much hiking lately- but several others were struggling from their fear of heights. The Hidden Canyon was a slot canyon, a narrow canyon with parallel steep rock faces. We scrambled over some boulders for a half a mile or so in the canyon. After Weeping Rock, we went to the Temple of Sinawava, a riverside walk that leads us to the famous Narrows. Zion is famous for the Narrows, a very narrow part of Zion Canyon that requires a number of canyoneering skills to pass. We didn’t get a chance to try because it was closed due to heavy water flow. We picnicked in an area called the Grotto and then picked up a trail to the Emerald Pools. These pools of water, another oasis in the desert, were popular with the kids. The nicest pool, the upper pool, was so crowded that we didn’t stay for long. After a good day of hiking, we took it easy at the campsite, reading and writing our blog posts. That evening, we did something called “Ride with a Ranger;” we took a guided shuttle tour (with lots of stops) with a park ranger.  She was excellent giving us an overview of the geology, wildlife and history of the park.

We had debated getting a wilderness permit to do an overnight backpacking trip in the park, but the weather forecast was questionable and we didn’t want to risk getting stuck in a flash flood. On Saturday, we drove about 50 miles to another section of the park called Kolob Canyons. This area is at a higher elevation, therefore cooler and greener. We did a 5 mile hike that required crossing a windy river about 100 times. There was a big diversity of plant life and wildflowers, in contrast to the south end of the park. After exploring Kolob Canyons, we made a stop in Cedar City at the Pioneer Heritage State Park. It was more of a living history museum, than a park, with lots of recreations of how pioneer life was (a log cabin, a school, etc.) and a big collection of stage coaches which I found pretty cool. Surprisingly, we had the place to ourselves. Even on this holiday weekend, they had very few visitors. We treated ourselves to an ice cream before making the drive back to camp.

I woke up Sunday morning ready for a good hike. It was cooler and the wind had picked up. After breakfast, we walked up the riverside path to catch the shuttle to the Grotto where we would pick up the path to Angel’s Landing. Angel’s Landing is 5 mile round-trip trail that climbs more than 2,000 feet. The first part of the trail was very easy, though climbing. The last ½ mile is a scramble on narrow ledges and over large rocks. The hardest part was actually the number of people. At several points, the path was bottlenecked with people forced to step away from a guiding rail to let someone pass by. The view from the top was impressive down onto the Virgin River below. We got back to our campsite after an 8 mile hike in total ready for lunch. We spent the afternoon relaxing, and then took the car to the east side of the park to enjoy some more scenic views. The evening was very windy and cold and we were both in our sleeping bags before it got dark outside.

We were up early on Monday, packed up and enjoyed a last breakfast in our campsite by the river before catching the road to: Las Vegas.

Capitol Reef National Park and Bryce Canyon NP, a geologist’s paradise

Sunday, May 29th, 2011

May 23rd-May 26th

From Green River, we drove south again to Capitol Reef NP. This park also has some crazy rock formations, but it’s a little different than the previous ones. Here, the rock has been uplifted so everything is on a slant. The rock formations looked like sinking ships. The area was also a Mormon settlement. A small Mormon community aptly named Fruita (for the fruit orchards they planted) built their homesteads there along the Fremont River. We visited an old homestead that is now a historical site and then drove up the scenic drive to the Capital Gorge, a narrow gorge that we hiked up for about 2 miles. We arrived early enough to secure a nice camping spot in the campground under the Cottonwood Trees. Looking down on the campground, the almost fluorescent green trees seemed out of place against the dry desert landscape. Before dinner, we did a short a hike called the Rim Overlook Trail along the cliff tops to get some beautiful views of the area. We passed through a series of red rocks and I commented to Fabien that this is what Mars must look like.

After a cool, but restful night, we woke up very early the following morning to get an early start to Bryce Canyon. We weren’t expecting it, but the drive was absolutely beautiful. We passed a summit around 10,000 feet and saw snow on the trees once again. We arrived at Bryce Canyon just in time to get a camping spot. They were all full by early afternoon. We set up camp, had a picnic lunch and then took a walk out to peer into the magnificent canyon. It reminded me of a fairyland (if one really exists, it’s here.) The hoodoos (or rock formations sticking hundreds of feet into the air) are a beautiful mix of red, orange and white. We hiked the Rim Trail to Sunrise Point and then descended into Queen’s Garden. For me, this was the most impressive area of the park. There were colorful hoodoos in all directions, some naturally formed to look like castle walls and spires. Others resembled people or animals. At the bottom of Queen’s Garden, we joined the Navajo Trail which took us up through the famous Wall Street section. There was a warning that rock falls occur often on the trail, and in fact, part of the trail was closed due to a serious rockslide earlier this spring. Back at the top, we continued the Rim Trail to several more viewpoints giving us expansive views over the “canyon.” At the end, we took the handy shuttle bus back to our campground.

Our second day in Bryce Canyon, we started with some areas that you can only get to by driving. At the very end of the road at Rainbow Point, we could see the rocks that form the north rim of the Grand Canyon. We also did a short hike at this point that took us through some muddy and snowy areas (we were at about 9,000 ft elevation here compared with 8,000 at the campground.) We went back to the campsite for lunch and relaxed a bit before doing a 5 mile hike that started on the Peekaboo trail and returned on the Navajo and Queen’s Garden trail. After all of that we still had energy after dinner. We went to the evening program at the lodge, which was very charming place. Apparently, it’s the only NP lodge in its original 1920s state. There are private log cabins with fireplaces that look very cozy. Anyway, the evening program was about slot canyons (extremely narrow canyons) and all of the exciting things that can happen to you while you’re hiking through them- particularly flash floods! Back to camp and to bed; the next morning we would have another early start to grab our camping spot in Zion NP for the holiday weekend.

Arches National Park and Canyonlands NP (Moab, Utah)

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 20th-22nd Arches National Park is another example of the amazing and otherworldly landscapes found on the Colorado Plateau. It is one of the largest concentrations of natural arch formations in the world. The orange sandstone formations, jutting up from ... [Continue reading this entry]

Welcome to Utah

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 19th After two nights of camping in the rain and snow, Fabien and I were definitely ready for a hot shower and a warm bed. The weather was still sketchy as we crossed the border to Utah, alternating between dark ... [Continue reading this entry]