Direction: Taos, New Mexico
Sunday, May 22nd, 2011May 10th-12th
On an intense trip like ours, sometimes we need to take off a day or an afternoon to catch up. That’s what we’re doing today. I’m about two weeks behind on my blog journal. The last two weeks will probably be among the most memorable of our entire trip, so they deserve to be recorded. I’m going to try something different and start from the present and work my way backwards.
Fabien and I have spent the last couple of days in Taos, New Mexico. Taos is nestled in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. People come here to ski, to experience Native American cultures and to do their own art or just to enjoy the art of others. It was a natural stop on our itinerary after Santa Fe and we were drawn by the same reasons as others and also because our friends Angie and Mike decided to elope here a couple of years ago. Something must have drawn them here and we were ready to experience it.
After our lovely send-off from Santa Fe on Tuesday morning, we took the High Road to Taos on the recommendation of Kristen. The road took us to a little historic village called Chimayo. It is believed that a miracle occurred there about 200 years ago and a chapel, El Sanctuario de Chimayo, was built on the spot. Today, pilgrims flock there each year in search of the “Holy dirt,” which you can also buy in the local gift shops. Nearby the main church is there is another church, the Santo Nino de Atocha, a church dedicated to the child saint of Atocha. The interior was decorated with gifts brought by pilgrims, including baby shoes . Chimayo also boasted a couple of gift shops advertising their famous red chili powders. We were lured in by Carlitos with his “I have something you’re going to love…” in a Mexican accent. We taste-tested all of his chili powders and mixes with pistachios while he told us his philosophy on love and life. The chili and the stories inspired us, so we left with some red chili mix and some pistachios for the road.
When we arrived in Taos, we were still unsure about where we were going to stay. We were looking forward to doing some camping near the Rio Grande, but the weather forecast was for cold, wet weather. We decided to go to the youth hostel (also recommended by Kristen,) the Abominable Snow Mansion. They can accommodate you in all kinds of ways (from teepees to dorm rooms to little cabins.) We opted for a cabin since the teepees were occupied by a group of first graders. It’s been a long time since we stayed in a hostel and we were a little overwhelmed at first by the close quarters and communal living. It’s more of the hippy hangout than the travelers’ hangout as most of the people around are living/working here, but it’s more fun that staying in a motel. They have an enormous organic vegetable garden and someone cooks up something fresh from the garden every night. For a small contribution, you can take part.
On Wednesday, we woke up to a cold morning with dark clouds. After breakfast, it started snowing popcorn- like snow that didn’t stick. We started our day with a visit to the San Francisco de Asis Church which is the most photographed church in the U.S. and also where our friends were married. The church was made of adobe, with enormous tan walls. It did inspire us to snap a few shots. Then we went to the Taos Pueblo. Entering the Taos Pueblo, a World Heritage Living Site, was literally like entering another time in history. The pueblo is extremely well preserved. It is home to the “people of the red willows.” We started with a visit to the San Geronimo church which was built in 1850 to replace the church that was destroyed during a skirmish when the U.S. took control of the New Mexico territory. The Spanish converted many natives to Catholicism, but today the locals practice both Catholicism and their native rituals. A part of the old church remains in the cemetery where many locals were buried during the skirmish. The main structures in the pueblo are believed to be over 1000 years old. They are like apartment buildings, housing many families in a single structure. In fact, they reminded me of the mud villages in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. There are drying racks out front, which were traditionally used for drying pelts and foods. There were also traditional hornos which are outdoor adobe ovens. We tried some cookies baked in an horno– they were delicious. We ducked in to several shops with wood burning fire places to warm up- it was windy and with occasional snow flurries. The locals were very friendly and anxious to discuss their culture with us. This is where we learned that even though there is no electricity or running water in the pueblo, the locals are using modern conveniences (like Coleman lanterns) to have an easier life.
After the pueblo, we made our way to the historic center which is centered on the main plaza. There are lots of little boutiques and restaurants and art galleries. After lunch, we visited the Kit Carson House Museum. Kit Carson was one of the most well-know frontiersmen. In the house, we learned a little about is adventurous and colorful life. I just started reading Blood and Thunder by Hampton Sides to learn more about his life and experiences with the American Indians.
By Thursday (today), the weather had gotten much better. We woke up to a sunny morning, perfect for exploring some of the outdoor wonders. We drove to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. We were actually disappointed with the bridge (it wasn’t as big or beautiful as we expected) but the gorge carved by the Rio Grande River was magnificent as well as the views of the river below. Continuing out of town in the same direction, we came to the Earthship Visitors’ Center and community. Earthships are ecologically sustainable houses, built from old car tires and adobe. They are completely self-sufficient, collecting rainwater for water needs and using solar energy for electricity needs. The houses remind me of Gaudi sculptures. I thought they had a lot of interesting ideas that we should incorporate into already existing housing (like using rainwater runoff.) Continuing our cultural discovery of the southwest, we went to the Millicent Rogers Museum, a museum highlighting the native arts and Hispanic arts from the region. Then we went in search of some hot springs next to the Rio Grande River. We had to follow a dirt road through the National Recreation River to the Rio Grande and then hike down a small path (after picnicking near the car.) When we arrived, there was a lone guy from Colorado enjoying the springs au natural. He didn’t seem to mind the interruption, asked us for some advice about visiting the pueblo and warned us about mountain lions and rattlesnakes before leaving us to enjoy the hot springs. After a fun and fulfilling day, we decided to come back to the hostel to write, read and relax. We’ll see how much progress I make this evening… Tomorrow, we are on the road again, heading north to Colorado and the Great Sand Dunes National Park.
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