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Baton Rouge, the Louisiana State Capital and road to Mississippi

Monday, March 21st, 2011

March 13th

On our way to Natchez, Mississippi, we stopped off in Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana. Unfortunately, it was a Sunday and many of the sites were closed. We were planning to visit the Old State Capital, an enormous structure, reminiscent of a Moorish castle, but it was closed on Sundays due to budget cuts…an unfortunate pattern that we saw throughout Louisiana, a state that should be benefit more from its oil reserves. We did however visit the New State Capital, the tower (one of only three state capitals are towers in the U.S. – the others being in Florida and Nebraska) was commissioned by the slightly megalomaniac governor Huey Long during the Great Depression- ironically, he was also assassinated there.

Just north of Baton Rouge, we made a second stop in St. Francisville. This little town was settled by Spanish monks as a burial ground- it’s location on a hill top made it less susceptible to flooding. It then became the favored location of the wealthy plantation owners whose cotton plantations lined the Mississippi. There are numerous historical homes and plantations to visit in the area. We chose Rosedale Plantation, which was surrounded by several acres of marvelous gardens. Unfortunately, we had forgotten to turn our clocks forward for daylights savings time, and were kicked out just after our tour and didn’t have much time to explore the gardens.

Next stop: Natchez, Mississippi

Lafayette and Cajun music

Friday, March 18th, 2011

March 11-12th

A Boy Scout event invaded the state park for the weekend so we moved into Lafayette to the KOA campground so that we could spend a couple of extra days and hopefully catch some live music. The location next to the I-10 highway was not ideal (in fact it was extremely noisy) but the staff was extremely friendly and told us about the Friday night “jam session” at the cultural/tourist information center across the street from the campground. We weren’t sure what to expect as we wandered over around 8:30 after dinner. The jam session had moved inside (it’s usually on the veranda) because it was chilly outside. There were about 10 guys of all ages (literally from about 10 years old to 70) playing the fiddle, the accordion, the guitar and the triangle. They spoke a mix of English with a sing-songy accent and Cajun French together. Most of the songs they sang were in French and sung by the older men who knew the words. Sometimes they traded parts and instruments; it was obviously a time to share – the older men passing down their knowledge to the younger. We stayed for about an hour, listening to songs that got your feet tapping and others that made you sad. I was most impressed by the mix of ages-it rare to see several generations share an interest in something these days.

On Saturday, we continued our education on Acadiana and the Cajun culture at the Vermilionville living history museum and then went for lunch at a local place serving up BBQ chicken, jambalaya, boudin blanc (cajun style- not exactly like what you find in France- it’s a mix of pork, liver, Cajun spices and cinnamon) and corn bread stuffing. We walked around downtown Lafayette a little bit, but things were pretty quiet. After dinner, we went to a Cajun restaurant and dance hall called Mulate’s to listen to some more Cajun music. This time it had more of a country music feel. The dance floor was full of older couples doing the two-step. Fabien and I tried it out, but we both have two left feet and disagree about whom should lead…

Cajun country

Thursday, March 17th, 2011
March 10-11th Our morning began with a visit to St. Martinville, a village that lies on the Bayou Teche in the heart of Cajun country. The journey to get there from the park involved following the levee back to a crossroads ... [Continue reading this entry]

On the road to Cajun country

Wednesday, March 16th, 2011
March 9th On Wednesday, around 5 in the morning, we were woken by a huge thunderstorm. The streets in Kenner near where were staying flooded, not being able to drain off the water quickly enough and there were downed tree limbs ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mardi gras, New Orleans

Sunday, March 13th, 2011
March 8th Mardi gras is a legal holiday in the state of Louisiana, and my stepdad, Ken, got a surprise day off to come and watch the parades and join in the festivities with us. Fabien and I are early risers ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lundi gras (that means “Fat Monday”,) New Orleans

Saturday, March 12th, 2011
March 7th Our main objective was to catch a few of the Mardi Gras parades and soak up a little atmosphere in New Orleans. We were expecting large crowds of people and were a little worried about the parking and safety ... [Continue reading this entry]

Four states in one day; Destination: New Orleans

Saturday, March 12th, 2011
March 6th
It was a grey, damp Sunday morning and we had to dry out our gear before packing it up and getting on the road. We decided to do a short run through the sandy marsh ... [Continue reading this entry]