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A “sense of direction” reconnects me to travel writing

Wednesday, February 27th, 2008

After attending the 16th Annual Travel Writer’s Conference at Book Passage (bookstore) in Corte Madera, CA in August, 2007:

From the first time I stuck out my thumb at age 14 headed north on the Merritt Parkway out of New York City and found my way seamlessly, after numerous rides, to a teacher’s farmhouse in Northern Vermont, I held a cocky pride in my “great sense of direction.” It took 38 years and several circumnavigations of the globe to have this pretense shot to hell by a short drive from San Francisco International Airport (SFO) to Marin County.

 I was familiar with the Bay Area. In 1999 I spent a month at the Presidio taking a pretentiously titled course accredited by Goddard College: “Sustainable Ethical Enterprise Design.” Five years earlier I spent more than a year in Sonoma, just an hour’s drive north of the Golden Gate, managing a 200-acre conference center ranch where, under wide-limbed grandfather oaks, amid colorful organic gardens and in mission-style cottages, spiritual warriors and seekers came for a dose of enlightenment. So I thought I knew my way around when I arrived at SFO and rented a silver-colored PT Cruiser to drive to Book Passage in Corte Madera, on the north side of the Golden Gate Bridge, for a four-day Travel Writer’s Conference. No problem.

 I didn’t factor in that for the past six years I have lived in Santa Fe, New Mexico, a 400-year-old city of 70,000 people where sitting through two red lights constitutes a traffic jam and strangers still wave at one another as their cars narrowly pass on winding dirt roads. Even as a real estate broker whose job entails driving all over the county to show property to prospective buyers, I log less than 11,000 miles a year and my car’s computer read-out shows an average speed of 17 m.p.h. I live at a meandering speed, waking to the whooping of raven’s wings and falling asleep to the high-pitched yapping of coyotes in the juniper-dotted valley as they congregate for their nightly feast on a helpless jack rabbit or someone’s unfortunate kitty-cat.  

 After landing at SFO with a single rolling carry-on bag, I trudged a long corridor to a jostling tram, taking it five stops to the rental cars terminal, then an elevator up and a stairway down and another hike through the dark, low-ceilinged concrete garage, expecting “Deep Throat” to appear from behind a dirty pillar.

Once in my car zooming the freeway toward Corte Madera at 65 m.p.h., I realized I headed south toward Pacifica, not north toward the Golden Gate. I turned around at some overpass, sheepishly considering the adverse impact of the passage of birthdays and, more-philosophically, what is known and knowable, what needs to be learned or re-learned.

Disoriented in my new-found humility, and gripping the retro-styled steering wheel to maintain my place amid 5 lanes of bridge traffic, I made my way to the conference and into the company of some 125 travel writers and photographers.

 I may have lost confidence in my unerring sense of direction, but I gained it in reconnecting to the world of travel writing, a world from which I thought I had unwittingly disconnected two decades ago.