Tiger Man Love You Long Time
We all decided to visit the oft spoke of lake, or rather Chieo Lan Reservoir, that the local guides compete to take the park visitors to. I mean they really talk up this lake. We decided to go with “the tiger man” because he calls himself Tiger Man. It’s hard to argue with that. On the drive to the lake I had an hour one on one with him and discovered he used to go on 7-10 day treks through the jungle looking for the rare beasts. He stopped because “Tiger Man has high blood pressure.” He figures there used to be 100 tigers in Khao Sok, down now to around 15 due to poaching. Long gone also are the Java and Sumatran Rhinos that I was surprised to learn had once wandered S.E. Asia.Tiger Man is full of boyish energy and has all the trademark one-liners of a seasoned guide. He became such a popular guide, according to him, that other “Tiger Men” started turning up to improve their business. Now he sports the tattoo “Tiger Man Love You” so that you never forget. He is the original.
The lake did turn out to be beautiful, with deep green waters the perfect swimming temperature lined with jutting limestone cliffs. Once a farming valley, the reservoir and dam now supply the south with electricity and water. These resources, together with the relocation money given to the old inhabitants of the lake by the Thai government might explain the wealthier veneer of these Thais. Nice homes, new trucks, and well-fed dogs are common sights, perhaps paid for from the flow of the dam, creating enough electricity to sell to Malaysia even.
We came to the end of our scenic long boat trip across the lake to find rows of huts floating on bamboo. After lunch and swimming, we took another short boat ride to begin our jungle trek to one of the many limestone caves in Khao Sok. The hike was cooler and remote than yesterday, crisscrossing through trees and stone monoliths of limestone and clay, occasionally the droning purr of the jungle pierced by the swooshing flight of a startled Great Horn bill. Amazing! And along the hike, our playful guides Tiger Man and Jahm were making leaf hats, bamboo flutes, and pointing out the utility and dangers of the jungle.
Then came the cave. The guides had spoken so emphatically about the lake, where I was amazed by the long winding cavern. I’ve been to caves where you go in, then come out. We went through this one, tromping through the underground creek past thousands of bats, hand-sized spindly spiders, crabs, and fish; finally ending neck deep in water at the exit.
It was another peaceful, tiring day in Khao Sok, with a bittersweet ending. The Aussie boys, Dave and Alex had to take off for Khao Lak to get scuba certified. Friends come and go where home’s on your back.
Tags: Thailand, Thailand
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