BootsnAll Travel Network



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Here lies the chronicle of my three years of travels around the world, mostly in Asia. I've got lots of stories, lots of pictures, and hopefully some useful advice you can benefit from along the way. Enjoy.

Learning Thai in Japanese

January 16th, 2006

I’ve read all the message boards about Thailand, learned about earplugs, dyed skin, and the tip to pick up a little Thai before you go. Luckily, in my Japanese kanji class there is a Thai guy. I jumped on the opportunity to hear that golden pronunciation straight from the source. I just finished my first official Thai lesson and found it to be a fun, new language with absolutely beautiful writing. The one problem is that Maku-san doesn’t speak much English. This was my first experience learning a new language in a foreign tongue. Halfway through our chat I realized just how far I’d come with my Japanese. I couldn’t believe what I was doing. Languages are a blast!

When I say languages are fun, I can’t overstate this enough. What’s better than talking to people? This is why I am constantly frustrated with my students of English. “Muzukashi”(difficult), is by far the most spoken Japanese word in my classes. So I’ve made a rule. That word is forbidden. Why? Because it’s a stupid thing to say. Of course learning a new language is difficult. Languages are obviously difficult. The focus should not be on how difficult they are, but on the rewards of learning a new skill. And what is more rewarding than sitting down and having an international, cross-cultural conversation? My students who finish a tough lesson and respond by saying “omoshiroi”(interesting), learn English twice as fast as the nay-sayers. Those stuck on the difficulty of the task have already defeated themselves. It goes without saying that I’m in the “interested” camp and don’t plan on moving. Call me stuck up but defeatist thinking pisses me off. Next year we’ll see if I can learn Russian in Thai. I’ll keep you posted.

The trip preparation stage drags on. Three weeks from today I’ll be sitting on a plane to Bangkok!

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Born in a “barn”

January 23rd, 2006

I’m two weeks from my departure from Japan, and I’m joyfully reminiscing on the great times I’ve had here. I’m so happy to say that despite having experienced my fair share of “cultural feux pais” and “societal differences,” my bitching about Japan can be summed up in one easy phrase: Japanese people were born in a barn. Or maybe they were born in a country that proliferated the use of automatic doors. This is the more likely explanation. Japanese people just don’t close doors, hold doors, or ever think that there might possibly be a person following them through a door.

I don’t care about the fact that Japanese people are indecisive, and beat around the bush like champs, and the girls are shy and laugh into their hands when I try to speak Japanese (I live in the countryside, by the way.) These experiences don’t bother me one bit, in fact, I love these wonderful differences. These are the differences that have made my time here interesting and “foreign.” I’m often in the company of other foreigners who complain about these differences like we’re competing in a sport, each one outdoing the other with a better “crazy Japanese person” story. Why do these people come to foreign countries if they are only to mock them when they arrive? No…Japanese people are great. They have been warm, friendly, and eager to share their fascinating country with me. I just wish that the doors would open a little sooner, close a little faster after we walk through them, and could possibly be held for courtesy’s sake every once in a while. That’s it, bitching finished. Otsukaresamadeshita.

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One week to go…

January 28th, 2006

Backpack…check. A couple of paperbacks…check. Map…check. Guidebook…already read it and gave it away. Maybe I’ll write my own when I get there. Where is there? Pretty much the rest of what I haven’t seen. Since I’ve seen primarily the US, Canada, Costa Rica, Japan, and Tijuana(cringe), the “rest” is a lot. As I’m wrapping up my beautiful life here in Japan, I’m beginning to realize that I’m not the placeless nomad that my friend’s back home have labeled me. I’ve become able to meld to all places. With soaring confidence I am jumping off this island into the vast expanse of Asia. The place that once intimidated me to no end with it’s overwhelming foreign strangeness has captured me. I’m addicted.

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A brilliant end to a new beginning

February 6th, 2006

The last week of my life in Japan had to be the best I can remember. Keep in mind this is coming from a guy who moves around a lot. In the times I’ve departed in the past there was some sense of longing to stay or not knowing why I was going to the next. This time I don’t have these feelings. I’m going to see “the rest”. The week was hectic and busy, bittersweet and sad, but it was the ultimate ending to my amazing 16 months in Nippon.I’ve always moved around a lot. In the states I change my locale at least every 6 months while rafting. Farewell parties are old hat. And now I’ve turned the well packed car into the perfectly packed backpack. I’ve been packing it again and again, day after day, making my girlfriend sadder with each perfect placement. What will Thailand and China have in store? I hope mostly freedom. It has been 16 months of sedentary teaching, the longest stretch of my adult life. I allowed me to know a foreign place at a deeper level, to learn the language. But now the problem is I want to spend that kind of time everywhere. I want a lifetime everywhere.

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Bangkok day one

February 7th, 2006

Having ended my seamless transition from sedentary life to one on the road in best possible form, I set out into Bangkok today ready to shred all my preconceived notions about this steamy Asian metropolis. The story I heard about it being hot checks out, but who cares, it’s south Asia? It’s hot! Something I didn’t expect is the scale and architecture of the urban landscape. I’m not really a fan of malls, but I went to the coolest mall I’ve seen in the heart of central Bangkok. They’ve managed to combine the vertical maze of Japanese department stores with the sprawling expanse of the American shopping mall. The result: An airy column of shopping bliss that tempted me to spend…so I left. Let’s get to that other rumor about Thailand. You know what I’m talking about folks. Here’s the part the mom’s stop reading. Just kidding Mom! No, but, I didn’t get propositioned in any way for exactly 18 hours. Of course I haven’t been in the local haunts, per se. But the way some people were talking, I was gonna have girls approaching me at the airport. 18 hours? I’ll never trust another NAVY guy again.I stopped and ate 6 times today. It’s hard to pass up a hot bowl or plate of something steaming before your eyes, usually for between 50-75cents. Bangkok is delicious.

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Day two in Bangkok

February 8th, 2006

Last night I met the coolest group of people at Suk 11, the coolest guest house in Bangkok. How fitting. This place exudes charm from every crack of it’s four stories. People have plastered their names and pictures on every reachable or unreachable parcel of space. After sharing some Awamori sake (a sayonara present) with three Japanese girls, Tanya and Kai, a couple from Germany strolled in. We chatted and drank the night away before agreeing to meet the next morning.What a great day. We started shopping near the national stadium (since I brought no clothes), then headed to Chinatown to pig out on dim sum. Then we hopped on the new Bangkok underground line to go to a highly recommended Thai massage parlour. Now I’m not much of a massage fan, and I can’t say that I enjoyed the experience, but I’m sitting in BKK airport right now waiting for my flight to Phuket…and I feel great.

I only knew Kai and Tanya for less than 24 hours, but it was sad to say goodbye to them. They became good friends in this short time, hopefully a sign of things to come.

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Stumbling out of the jungle

February 10th, 2006

2/10/06

I’m starting to settle in here on Ko Phi Phi nicely, finally getting some solid sleep. Last night I saw some Thai boxing, enjoyed a couple of beers, and chatted with some Swedish girls. Sports, beer, and Swedish girls all in the same night? It’s true. Today I took off to the beach to work on the “white guy” problem. I’m slowly finding the Thailand I had imagined. A group of Thai guys called me over to join their game. They were kicking around a medium size plastic ball and it turned out that the game was just like hacky sack. All of those lunch periods in high school were spent wisely it turns out, because I played with these guys for about an hour and a half.

After the beach I decided on a hike, got lost in a swarm of angry mosquitoes, and stumbled out of the jungle next to a green bungalow full of the nicest folks. Three Brits, an Indonesian, and a guy from Georgia (as in former Soviet state, not Bulldogs.) We all ended the night on the beach at a fire show.

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Grishams and Graftons

February 12th, 2006

I can see why people get lost on the beaches of southern Thailand. There is something here for everyone. There are parties for the partier, beer aplenty and cheap, white sand beaches, food to die for, and everyone has that healthy glow of a happy life under the sun. Even the Thais, who’s situation isn’t so privileged, are always smiling, although sometimes I think they’re smiling about the silly tourists. But otherwise, life just seems to stop on these islands. The rest of the world could be gone, and it wouldn’t matter because we are in this beautiful place.

A stroll through the paperback vendors yields clues of the people that have past through. Of course there are Grishams and Graftons, Kings and Koonsts, but more alluring are the random textbooks. The complete works of Neitze scattered among the classics, a biology book, law theory, remnants of lives left here on Phi Phi Island, albeit unlikely. Could the routine spring break trip have turned into a prolonged break? Or could others just not stand going back to the daily grind of the office? Are the dropouts, the prematurely retired, and the wanderers still out here on the Andaman coast, soaking up the slow life, still avoiding their books and the everyday hustle? Perhaps.

I will leave no books on Phi Phi, buy no souvenirs. My pack will stay the same as I prepare to depart from this beautiful place that everyone has found.

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“The beach” the beach

February 12th, 2006

Today is my last day on Phi Phi as I’m growing tired of the tourists here. Tomorrow morning I will take the boat to Krabi and plan to do some rock climbing on neighboring Railay and Tonsai beaches.Today me and a young Aussie kid hired a long boat to tour around the islands. It was nice to get some perspective on how big, or small rather, these islands are. The main island where people stay is Phi Phi Don. Just south is the uninhabited island of Phi Phi Ley. This is the notorious “Beach” filming location. I finally saw this movie last night since it plays daily in half the bars here. To see this famed beach in person was disappointing as it’s been overrun with boats and tourists. I wish I hadn’t gone at all, now. It is a beautiful spot though and really the only hospitable place on this craggy island. A white sand beach sits protected by a coral filled cove. Coral that is half-dead or dying from the unaware snorkelers and boat gypsies out to make a buck. The main inhabitants of this island, the swifts, can’t seem to escape the commerce of southern Thailand either. Their nests have a reputation as an aphrodisiac and are harvested or poached to be made into an extremely expensive soup. Why? Because swifts keeps it up…in the air…their lives, that is…all day. Hmmm.

I will be glad to get off Phi Phi tomorrow. To continue the journey and find something new. That’s what it’s all about.

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I love you 1000 baht

February 13th, 2006

Up early and caught the first boat to Krabi this morning. It was just a boat ride away from Railay, another beach resort that is separated into Railay east and west on opposite sides of a peninsula. Just above Railay west, separated by a hunk of jungle covered rock daunting enough to prevent to much tourist overflow sits the climber community of Tonsai. The climbing is incredible, and quite intimidating for me, but the character of it’s dirt roads and jungle bungalows is fantastic. So who wants to go climbing? i do, but at the moment it’s pouring buckets and I’m waiting out the rain until happy hour starts at Bang’s Bar.Bang is a beautiful Thai girl who just opened a bar on the beach. All of her high school friends are coming tonight so it should be fun. I was the first customer of the day as Bang and her friends called me in out of the rain. I want to think they are “nice girls” and not “working girls,” but I suppose that would be naive. I have a feeling they could be bought for the night. What a crazy sexual culture where the answer to “How much do you love me?” is usually “I love you 1000 baht, I love you one night.”

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