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Mongolian Tour Options

Tuesday, May 22nd, 2007

I’ve divided your Mongolian tour options into three categories: Guided, English speaking driver only, or “any driver will do.”

Guided trips 

These come in all shapes and sizes.  It’s possible to book online with a big, expensive tour operator, have an airport pickup, and stay in a tourist yurt camp, but this isn’t the best way to see the country.  I recommend one of the many guesthouses in Ulaan Baatar.  See my suggestions here.  The Golden Gobi was a great resource for me and is one of my favorite guesthouses.

Pros:

  • Great food.  If you’re a vegetarian God help you in Mongolia.  You simply have to hire a guide to cook in this meat lover’s paradise.
  • History, geological info, ect.

Cons:

  • There is a distance from the families.  You’re more likely to stay in the guest ger rather than staying up with Mongolians drinking vodka, snorting snuff, and smoking their pipe. 
  • Less traditional food.  This could be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on your pickyness.
  • Less of a “head first” cultural experience.
  • Expensive

English speaking driver

This is a great alternative that will get you out of U.B. to see some sights and stay with some great families.  Keep in mind you are usually responsible for all of your drivers meals and possibly accomodation if it’s cold out.

Pros:

  • You always know where you’re going and what’s for dinner.
  • You will definately be hanging out a lot with friendly, hospitable Mongolians.
  • Cheap (Around $20 a day for car/gas/driver and usually 3,000-5000T a night)

Cons:

  • You might not always like what’s for dinner.  You will be eating whatever the family is eating which is usually rice and meat or noodles and meat.
  • Communication can still be a problem.
  • Drivers might skimp on sights and offer no info.

“Any driver will do”

If you’re feeling adventurous, brush up on your Cyrillic alphabet and head to the Black Market and find a jeep or van. 

Pros:

  • What a story you’ll have if you ever get back
  • You’re picture drawing and miming skills will no doubt improve
  • Probably the cheapest option if you’re not ripped off (have a local help negociate a price.)
  • If you’re going into the country you will likely stay with the driver’s extended family.
  • Every time you get in the car your destination is a surprise.  How fun.
  • You can learn Mongolian!

Cons:

  • Pretty much the inverse of all the pros!

I never hired a guide in my travels and had a blast with options 2 and 3, both of which you can read accounts of under this blog’s Mongolia category.  I do know that I missed some nearby petroglyphs and deer stones while in Western Mongolia because we weren’t able to communicate with our driver, but the cultural experiences were priceless and I wouldn’t have done anything differently.

Hope this is helpful.

Back Door Route to Kazakhstan, Olgii to Almaty flight

Monday, May 21st, 2007

My first plan to get to Kazakhstan was the overland border route from China, but then I heard about this weekly Wednesday flight from Olgii, in far western Mongolia. This is a cool way to enter the country, and will give you the time to spend some time in the amazing Altai mountains where you can experience the Kazakh culture of old and see some eagle hunters (without getting stuck in the middle of nowhere).

Here’s some logistics that I hope help: The Kazakh consulate in Ulaan Baatar is friendly, helpful, and never crowded. I had a visa already for Kyrgyzstan and the two countries have an agreement currently where you can stay 72 hours in Kazakhstan without a visa if you already have an onward visa. I decided that this would still be a gamble on the Mongolian side of things and didn’t want to get stuck in Olgii because the airline wouldn’t let me on the plane. (I don’t think this would have been the case since they barely glanced at my passport.) But I got the $20 transit visa to be safe and it got me an extra day in Kaz. (For some nationalites it’s $5).

Once you get your visa you can book your ticket. Everyone (including Lonely Planet) will tell you that you can’t book the Olgii to Almaty flight from anywhere but Olgii. Wrong. Here’s the number to the Trans-Olgii office that handles the flight:  99422488  It’s a long distance call and you’ll have to get a Mongolian to book the reservation. Just make sure you turn up in Olgii 24 hours before the flight and pay the $259 plus 8400 T airport tax. The Trans-Olgii office is in the building directly west of the square. Go to the third door. That’s about all there is to it. The flight leaves at 3:00 Wednesday and stops for customs in Ust-Kamenogorsk. Then on to Almaty.

As for getting to Olgii, either fly or take a couple of weeks getting there by van or jeep.  To take the three day journey in one gulp is a form of self torture most would do well to avoid.  Flights are weekly and between $170-200.

Hope this helps.

The Kazakh Eagle Hunters

Sunday, May 20th, 2007

My friend Bavo is pursuing his childhood dream to track down the Kazakh eagle hunters who reside in far the Western Mongolian region of Bayan-Olgii.  He's passionate about it and his fervor for these noble ... [Continue reading this entry]

The New Jeep

Sunday, May 20th, 2007
Our driver Tulegin "the hooligan" is one the most straight-laced guys you can imagine, making us chuckle all the more at our stupid little pneumonic device we've choosen for him. The look ... [Continue reading this entry]

City of Smiles, Olgii Western Mongolia

Saturday, May 19th, 2007
Olgii is a city of smiles. Settled among the dark craggy peaks of the Altai, this aimag (capital) of Bayan-Olgii has a distinctly different feel to it from other Mongolian towns, and is a particularly welcome sight this morning having ... [Continue reading this entry]

Elusive Olgii

Saturday, May 19th, 2007

Map 

Getting to Olgii is no easy task either way you look at it. We couldn't find a flight early enough so we've decided to fly to Khovd and take a jeep up to Olgii. After some shifting ... [Continue reading this entry]

Gonzo for Genghis

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007
When the Soviets ruled the roost in Mongolia Genghis (Chinggis) Khaan was a sidelined hero. I've even heard that they tried to kill out the remnants of his bloodline but have a hard time believing it. In the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Best Hostels in Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007
Ulaan Baatar has no shortage of places to stay. The city has seen a boom in guesthouses and hostels since the fall of communist rule. I've narrowed down my top picks based on what I've heard and the places I've ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Dust of Ulaan Baatar

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007
The springtime in Mongolia feels of dusty desolation. As you walk in the capital through barren side streets past the old decrepit facades of communist apartment blocks, you can't help but wonder how this land once became the center ... [Continue reading this entry]

Next stop: The Wild West

Sunday, May 6th, 2007
I pick up my Kazakhstan visa tomorrow and have to figure out how I'm going to get to Olgii in far western Mongolia.  This region is more ethnically Kazakh and has been through a series of ups and downs since ... [Continue reading this entry]