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Saved in Shikoku

Thursday, January 4th, 2007

Yesterday my luck began to change for the better. I got a hold of Mayumi while in Okayama and she told me to get back to Sakaide right away. In the end I got to cross the huge bridge four times, a thrilling and beautiful experience. The inland sea separating the islands of Shikoku and southern Honshu has a different feel. Its rich green waters were gorgeous on these clear winter days. With no waves the coast has been spared from the wrath of concrete tetrapods that litter the Pacific side. Dotted with small islands and busy with a constant stream of sea traffic, it reminds me of Puget Sound.

Mayumi’s family took me in as one of their own. They fed me, bathed me, and Mayumi put some money in my pocket. It was my first experience with the rumored Western Japanese hospitality and it will go down as one of my best memories from my time in Japan. It was hard to manage my best Japanese manners while fighting the urge to devour all the food in front of me like a wild animal. I had been imagining the previous two days what I’d prefer if I could eat anything. Lasagna topped the list over mashed potatoes, gravy and pork chops. I didn’t imagine myself eating osechi, the traditional New Years holiday food, but that’s exactly what I ate. It’s made the day before New Years and placed in decorated boxes. The idea behind New Years, or Oshou Gatsu, is that everyone relaxes including the women-folk, so all the food can stay fresh for several days. It’s a random assortment that most foreigners would call “strange Japanese food.” Honestly I’ve always gone out of my way to avoid osechi, hearing again and again how people generally tolerate it for the sake of tradition. So I’m glad I waited until I was literally starving to try it, because it tasted amazing.
This morning Mayumi and her parents took me on a drive around Sakaide showing me the best viewpoints of the bridge and sea. They dropped me off at the station a changed man.

The night on the mountain

Wednesday, January 3rd, 2007

I woke up to the sound of voices. I had figured that my location choice for camping would be a popular place for early risers to walk in the morning, but I didn’t care. When the voices trailed off I quickly got up and packed away my sleeping bag and bivy. I slept perched on a level clearing on the side of a small mountain near Sakaide station. My plan to charge my phone last night failed when I realized that my charger was broken. Must have fried it in Korea.

While Japan is full of small city parks suitable for sleeping out, the chances of getting hastled by the police are higher and the traffic and lights can make for a sleepless night. I’ve learned to head for the mountains and recommend Google Earth to figure out good towns with mountains within walking distance of the station.

This spot was perfect. The view of Sakaide, the surrounding hills, inland sea, and Seto Ohashi on the horizon were welcome sights this morning. My hunger had subsided as well, and as I begin day two of my fast I simply feel weak and tired with hunger pain coming in less frequent waves.

Soon an old man and his dog came up the hill. He took one look at my backpack and said in Japanese:

“Are you camping in the winter?”

Trying to make an excuse for myself I tripped over my words until finally conceding that I was. He looked at me, then up the trail and said, “Well, shall we climb the mountain?”

“Sure.” We chatted along the way about Shikoku, it’s famous udon noodles, the 88 shrine pilgrimage that many in Japan try to complete, and the mountain. The old guy climbs it twice a day; once at 6am and again at 4pm. What a nice ritual. When we arrived at the top the sun was about 20 minutes from peeking up over the mountains across the clearing where Sakaide is nestled among the hills. I had a magical experience on that mountain.

Last night I arrived in Sakaide with no way of reaching my friend, and from the station exit I could see the lights leading up to the summit, calling me over for the night. When I arrived at my little clearing, two owls swooped down and perched on a light pole, watching me set up my bed before flying away. I guess I checked out alright with them.

After watching the sunrise I had to formulate a plan. I would catch the train back to Okayama, the biggest city in the area, and hope for a cell phone shop to be open to call Mayumi. I can wait out the hunger until tomorrow, but would rather not. I bid the old man and his dog farewell and headed back the the station.

Fast for Hiroshima

Tuesday, January 2nd, 2007
When luck turns against you, and you happen to find yourself in a particular travel destination you had hoped to enjoy, but now face less than optimal conditions (like for instance it's raining or you're broke and starving), you should ... [Continue reading this entry]

Happy New Year to the poor and homeless

Tuesday, January 2nd, 2007
My hardship begins. I was greeted in Busan International Ferry terminal by closed ticket windows. Busan to Fukuoka-closed; Busan to Kobe-closed; Busan to Qingtao-closed. Come back on January 5th. Panic set in before I noticed the ... [Continue reading this entry]

New Years

Monday, January 1st, 2007
Last night started late at the Speakeasy in downtown Gwangju. We arrived at around 11:00 and wandered around lighting off roman candles and watching the live pop show concert in the center of town before heading to the foreigner ... [Continue reading this entry]

An entertainment assessment: Korea v. Japan

Sunday, December 31st, 2006
Late start needless to say. We caught a movie before shifting into New Years mode. The movie got me thinking about Japan. Throughout the trip I've tried to be careful about comparing the countries too much, but ... [Continue reading this entry]

Gwangju, May 18 Revolt

Saturday, December 30th, 2006
Gwangju was the site of a large uprising against the government which started on May 18, 1980. A group of pro-communist student activists took to the streets, angered by the closing of the University by military personnel. The ... [Continue reading this entry]

Gwangju, South Korea

Friday, December 29th, 2006
It was nice to wake up in an apartment. Scott had to work, so I had the day to myself to explore Gwangju. As South Korea's fifth largest city, this home to 1.4 million people has a ... [Continue reading this entry]

National Museum of Korea

Thursday, December 28th, 2006
Chiaki left this morning, catching the early flight back to Tokyo to bring her ridiculously short vacation to a close. I slept in before checking out of the hotel and beginning my long solo trip back to Japan. ... [Continue reading this entry]

The 38th Parallel

Wednesday, December 27th, 2006
I am not much for tours. I like doing touristy things at times while traveling of course, but the thought of piling in and out of a bus and anything involving a blow horn or following a flag sends ... [Continue reading this entry]