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Archive for May, 2007

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Crossing the Altai

Sunday, May 20th, 2007

Map

It’s amazing what discoveries crossing a mountain range can uncover. I leave the barren peaks of the Mongolian Altai and fly over into Kazakhstan, touching down in Ust-Kamenogorsk near the Russia border. Stepping off the place I am hit by waves of humidity and green, two things I haven’t experienced for some time.

After an easy customs pass we board again and fly over the Ulba River and the bright green fields surround its flooded banks. Many of Kazakhstan’s agricultural areas were over-irrigated under Soviet rule and soils are now classified as either over-fertilized or degraded, neither a good thing. The plane flies south toward Almaty, over the steppe, and the enormous Lake Balkash whose fate appears to be following in the footsteps of the Aral Sea. It is evaporating because its sources have been tapped, but this time the blame falls of the Chinese rather than Soviets for a change. Most of the ‘stans are facing environmental nightmares.

The Kazakh Eagle Hunters

Sunday, May 20th, 2007

My friend Bavo is pursuing his childhood dream to track down the Kazakh eagle hunters who reside in far the Western Mongolian region of Bayan-Olgii.  He’s passionate about it and his fervor for these noble birds of prey is contagious.  I’ve caught eagle fever as well.  

Maybe it was growing up in Belgium and not having the proximity to nature that’s made Bavo so relentless in his search, or simply the power of National Geographic documentaries to capture the imagination of young viewers.  Regardless, he’s here pursuing his dream and I respect him for it. 

Our driver Tulegin is Kazakh and assures us that he can take us to see some eagles.  He doesn’t disappoint.  He speaks no English so random stops become common, but this time he waves us out of the car and after a brief conversation a young guy emerges from his small square house with the hooded eagle.

Later that night we head out of town to a humble ger that sits below Mount Tsengel, one of the highest peaks of the Altai.  The man asks us for a dollar each to see the eagle since the family is poor and they’re just coming out of the hard winter months.  He puts on his hunting caps and we head out into the field to check out his six-year-old bird.  We are allowed to get close to this one and it seems pretty tame.  I’m still concentrating harder on the bird’s massive talons and beak than the beauty of the bird.  The thing freaked me out.

 

The Kazakhs only hunt in the winter because they claim that the bird can see prey better when they have the advantage of the snow’s contrast.  I don’t really buy this explanation because the bird seems to be able to smell us strangers a mile away and can no doubt smell every prarie dog in a five mile radius.  I think the birds are just more likely to make a clean break if they’re let free in the summer.   

Our third eagle stop is on the way up to the Two Lakes area near the Chinese border.  This eagle is five and the largest and friskiest of the three.  Bavo braves sitting next to it after it’s owner struggles to get the hood on.  Immediately the bird’s head turns and starts sniffing who the hell is there and Bavo retreats as soon as I take the picture.

 

   

Bavo tells the man that the eagle is beautiful and he chuckles.  The Western perspective is so different from these nomadic men who’s aim is to gather as many fox, squirrel, and wolf skins as possible.  The eagle to us is majestic, but it seems they view it more as a tool. 
For more information on the Kazakh Eagle Hunters check out Stephen J. Bodio’s book Eagle Dreams.

 

 

The New Jeep

Sunday, May 20th, 2007
Our driver Tulegin "the hooligan" is one the most straight-laced guys you can imagine, making us chuckle all the more at our stupid little pneumonic device we've choosen for him. The look ... [Continue reading this entry]

City of Smiles, Olgii Western Mongolia

Saturday, May 19th, 2007
Olgii is a city of smiles. Settled among the dark craggy peaks of the Altai, this aimag (capital) of Bayan-Olgii has a distinctly different feel to it from other Mongolian towns, and is a particularly welcome sight this morning having ... [Continue reading this entry]

Elusive Olgii

Saturday, May 19th, 2007

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Getting to Olgii is no easy task either way you look at it. We couldn't find a flight early enough so we've decided to fly to Khovd and take a jeep up to Olgii. After some shifting ... [Continue reading this entry]

Gonzo for Genghis

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007
When the Soviets ruled the roost in Mongolia Genghis (Chinggis) Khaan was a sidelined hero. I've even heard that they tried to kill out the remnants of his bloodline but have a hard time believing it. In the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Best Hostels in Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007
Ulaan Baatar has no shortage of places to stay. The city has seen a boom in guesthouses and hostels since the fall of communist rule. I've narrowed down my top picks based on what I've heard and the places I've ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Dust of Ulaan Baatar

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007
The springtime in Mongolia feels of dusty desolation. As you walk in the capital through barren side streets past the old decrepit facades of communist apartment blocks, you can't help but wonder how this land once became the center ... [Continue reading this entry]

Next stop: The Wild West

Sunday, May 6th, 2007
I pick up my Kazakhstan visa tomorrow and have to figure out how I'm going to get to Olgii in far western Mongolia.  This region is more ethnically Kazakh and has been through a series of ups and downs since ... [Continue reading this entry]

Central Mongolia, Day Seven

Thursday, May 3rd, 2007
In 1204 Mongolia was a fractured region of warring tribes. Eight of these tribes united at this time against a vastly outnumbered leader named Temurjin at the battle of Nahu-Gun Mountain. This leader would prevail and two years ... [Continue reading this entry]