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Shanghai’s Jews

Friday, March 30th, 2007

History is written by the winners, so it’s hardly surprising that the Allied forces don’t brag about the fact that they turned away Jewish refugees seeking to flee Nazi Germany before WWII.  At that time there was only one city that was willing to take in around 30,000 Jews, and it was Shanghai.  For an excellent memoir about life for the Shanghai Jews check out Shanghai Diary by Ursula Bacon.

Today I set off the find the old Jewish ghetto in Hongkou where they were forced to live by the Japanese during the war.  So much of Shanghai is being bulldozed for new construction that I was skeptical whether anything would be left.  There is still a synagogue on the tourist map, so I was going to find it.

Luckily, the whole neighborhood is being preserved as a historical heritage district but the Ohel Moishe synagogue is currently under renovation.  Good for Shanghai but bad for me.  I walked through the the area, passing by the brick facades of these weathered, but still attractive 3 storied apartments.

I spent a couple hours searching the back-alleys and storefronts for any clue of the neighborhoods past, but sixty years of have wiped the slate clean.  There is one sign still visible noted in some guidebooks for the “Cafe Atlantic” shown here.

The bund sightseeing tunnel+Sexxx museum

Friday, March 30th, 2007

The Bund is perpetually packed with tourists. Shanghai in general sees a constant stream of flag following tour groups from around the globe, and especially from within China. As I battled through the Bund this morning I decided to splurge and take the sightseeing tunnel under the river to Pudong.

You board the little bubble car and are taken by rail under the Huangpu and treated to a psychedelic progression of lights. A dreamy voice tells what theme the lights are trying to convey. “Shimmering stars, space swirl, and massive magma,” are some of the ridiculous stages of this trippy little journey.

I bought a combination ticket that also includes the China Sex Museum, an amusing diversion. A professor in Shanghai started it because I guess his collection of ancient porn got too big. The museum has it all, from old informational pamphlets and models for newlyweds, fertility gods, porcelain figures of couples “doing it”, and even ancient toys for the ladies. Because widows weren’t allowed to remarry, the “phallus became their best friend.” (Museum’s words, not mine.)

They’ve even created some original peices of their own. For example:

Shanghai museum

Friday, March 30th, 2007
Shanghai is a museum junkies dream.  The city is packed with museums and exhibits sure to spark a wide array of interests.  The People's Square is a good place to begin as the Shanghai Museum, Art Museum, and Urban Planning ... [Continue reading this entry]

Land of Skyscrapers

Friday, March 30th, 2007
I was lured to Shanghai by the futuristic skyline of the new Pudong district. I have been surprised to discover that the true heart of the city surrounds the Renmin (People's) Square, a 15 minute walk down Nanjing shopping street ... [Continue reading this entry]

Yuyuan Garden and Bazaar

Thursday, March 29th, 2007
Yuyuan garden is in the heart of Shanghai's Old Town just south of the Bund.  This amazing garden and the surrounding buildings have been restored and turned into a bustling shopping area, Yuyuan bazaar, full of stores and food vendors.  It's ... [Continue reading this entry]

Shanghai-ed

Thursday, March 29th, 2007
There are 26 million people living in Shanghai and it feels like it.  The city attacks you from every angle.  Scooters, bikes, taxis, buses, vender ... [Continue reading this entry]

The slow boat to Shanghai

Monday, March 26th, 2007
Leaving Japan by ship is a beautiful experience.  From Osaka the ferry heads west into the inland sea passing under the Akashi Kaikyo bridge, the world's largest.  From there you just follow the sinking sun.  
[Continue reading this entry]

Osaka: Day guide

Saturday, March 24th, 2007
The best advice I can give to get the most out of your travels is to call ahead and get some recommendations from the locals.  I'm lucky that I have friends all over the place to give me the inside scoop ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sayonara Japan

Saturday, March 24th, 2007
The permanence of my departure from Japan has left me switching back and forth between feelings of excitement and apprehension. I've left plenty of places, but there's always been some kind of physical anchor left behind, something to make me ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pure Pachinko: A look into Japan’s favorite passtime

Wednesday, March 7th, 2007

Mr. Naito loves pachinko, this point is certain.  The first time we spoke about the subject his low voice resonated with an excited buzz that ... [Continue reading this entry]