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An entertainment assessment: Korea v. Japan

Sunday, December 31st, 2006

Late start needless to say. We caught a movie before shifting into New Years mode. The movie got me thinking about Japan. Throughout the trip I’ve tried to be careful about comparing the countries too much, but it’s been difficult to resist. Korea is often described as being somewhere in between China and Japan, and I’m not talking solely about geography. It’s not as clean and overly polite as Japan, but not as dirty as China, and Koreans have figured out how to form an orderly line. Cost of living is less than Japan and more than China. I’ve also found that people are genuinely interested in foreigners here as in Japan, but are more outgoing in their willingness to approach you. This gung-ho attitude is also present in Chinese society, but when taken to extremes comes off as aloofness or blatant disregard for others. While I don’t like using blanket descriptions or comparisons, I have had occasions in my time here where they are useful.

So in regard to Japan, I’ve been refreshed by the entertainment options readily available in Korea. It seems that Korean’s enjoy their free time more by the numerous options available to them. Japan’s primary entertainment venues are karaoke and Pachinko. Pachinko in particular is everywhere and is an activity that is so incredibly unappealing to me personally that it has become a symbol in my mind of the depressing workaholic lifestyle of some Japanese. It is a type of casino gambling that’s akin to vertical pinball. I haven’t quite figured it out completely because it’s played in a brightly lit, noisy, smoke-filled hall that I can’t stand, and is expensive to boot. As neither a fan of gambling nor sitting for hours at a time breathing second-hand smoke, I will never understand Pachinko’s popularity. But by its prevalence on every corner, it appears to be the entertainment of choice.

In a typical shopping area in Korea you can find many internet cafes, pool halls, noribong (karaoke), and movie theaters. There are simply more choices. Movie theaters tell a larger story. I spent about $10 to see an evening show, the price including popcorn and drink. In Japan, seeing a movie in a theater costs between $15-20 dollars for the ticket alone. This doesn’t include the train or bus ride that getting to the theater might require, as theaters are few and far between.

The prevalence of affordable, convenient movie theaters and Korea’s thriving entertainment industry are no coincidence. The film and television industries have been exporting Korean movies and shows around Asia for years, and a few movies have enjoyed acclaim recently worldwide. The most popular soap operas in Japan are Korean, sparking a surge in middle aged Japanese women tourists coming to Korea to chance a glimpse of their favorite heart-throb stars.

While manga and anime are Japanese mainstays, film that falls out of the animated category is stagnant in Japan. The movie companies are barely hanging on, bolstered slightly by the recent Japanese horror boom, but generally in a slump.

In the two years I’ve been in Japan, I’ve seen three movies in theaters. A week in Korea and I saw one because how can I resist when the option is there and cheap? While we waited for the show we played a few games of poor downstairs, the whole experience making me realize what I’ve been reluctant to admit; Japan is kind of boring.

Korea
versus

Japan

Gwangju, May 18 Revolt

Saturday, December 30th, 2006

Gwangju was the site of a large uprising against the government which started on May 18, 1980. A group of pro-communist student activists took to the streets, angered by the closing of the University by military personnel. The uprising soon expanded beyond students and citizen militias were formed which ended up expelling the military units by March 20. On March 27 the military regrouped and retook the city by force, killing 207 according to the official count. However, there are many who claim this figure to be much higher, possibly in the thousands.

Gwangju has since carried with it the reputation as the revolutionary city, and everywhere are reminders of these past events. Near Scott’s apartment is the May 18 Memorial Park and Museum. Poignant statues dot the park and surround a museum about the event. The park is nice, but I can’t seem to forget the injustice that overshadows the Memorial. The two generals directly responsible for orders to fire on crowds later both became president. I wonder how much attention is given this fact in the history books as those in power usually write them. A path winds up a gentle hill to a three-storied viewing pagoda. From the top you can see all of Gwangju and the mountains that surround, the largest of them being Mudeung-san which was our target today.

Hiking is a popular hobby among Koreans, so you know when your on a mountain-bound bus by the boots and hiking sticks. Even a short day hike brings out the full attire including knee-high leg warmers, gortex pants, jacket, gloves, and hat. These clothes didn’t seem so strange today since it’s cold and snowed earlier in the week, but according to Scott, even summer hikes bring out the full wardrobe.

We hiked around in the snow for a couple of hours before heading back downtown for lunch, a quick 30 minute ride. We rested up, had some dinner, and headed out at night in search of a foreigner party being given by some new teachers. The night ended in a Noribong, a Korean karaoke bar, and the last thing I remember is haggling with a waitress at 5 am over paying 4,000won for my bowl of “well-being” soup. Judging from the way I felt when I woke up I was right to give her a hard time, because there wasn’t an ounce of well being in my body. The whole night reminded me of my first six months in Japan, only I didn’t have to work to next day. Great night.

Gwangju, South Korea

Friday, December 29th, 2006
It was nice to wake up in an apartment. Scott had to work, so I had the day to myself to explore Gwangju. As South Korea's fifth largest city, this home to 1.4 million people has a ... [Continue reading this entry]

National Museum of Korea

Thursday, December 28th, 2006
Chiaki left this morning, catching the early flight back to Tokyo to bring her ridiculously short vacation to a close. I slept in before checking out of the hotel and beginning my long solo trip back to Japan. ... [Continue reading this entry]

The 38th Parallel

Wednesday, December 27th, 2006
I am not much for tours. I like doing touristy things at times while traveling of course, but the thought of piling in and out of a bus and anything involving a blow horn or following a flag sends ... [Continue reading this entry]

Best of Seoul, and another spot to miss

Tuesday, December 26th, 2006
The Korean War Memorial is a must. You can wander about the huge military junkyard and larger than life statues that surrounds the fortress-like building. I felt like a kid sitting in the cockpit of an old B-52 ... [Continue reading this entry]

Big day in Seoul

Tuesday, December 26th, 2006
Seoul is by far the most tourist friendly of all the huge Asian cities I've been. When you arrive, head straight to one of the many kiosks scattered about the tourist areas, especially the bustling markets of Namdaemun and ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Japanese travel juggernaut

Tuesday, December 26th, 2006
We were greeted at Incheon airport by the travel agency coordinator. Since Incheon is about an hour from Seoul, we thought we'd take advantage of the free ride to the hotel. In the past I've used Japanese travel ... [Continue reading this entry]

You have bullet?

Monday, December 25th, 2006
I've been waiting at this luggage carasol way too long, starting to think that all of my good travel karma has finally been exhausted when I spot my bag. We made it to Seoul at last and are in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Japan’s natural state

Wednesday, December 20th, 2006
The Kokai River flows below me toward the pink horizon to the southwest. Its flooded waters surge over a small diversion dam before bending west and exiting my view behind a concrete embankment, the future site of yet another bridge. ... [Continue reading this entry]