Sophie’s World

Yes, that’s right. Forget about Father Christmas/Santa Claus. Here in Italy La BEFANA - the good witch - rules.

I’m practically an expert on these markets now after having visited Vienna and Bratislava earlier this month; Prague and plenty of German markets in earlier years. My conclusion (totally subjective, but still)… is Vienna wins - hands down. That’s where I’m taking my kids next time visiting a Christmas market comes up.

But a few words about Rome: The main item of Rome’s Christmas markets: Witches. Everywhere you turn. Witches laughing wicked, insane laughs while sitting on swings or brooms or falling off their rockers…

Unprepared for this witch fest, my 5-year-old was actually a little frightened. Whenever someone clapped their hands (and the witch-pushers did - all the time), that shrill lunatic laugh piercing the bone marrow…..

The story of La Befana is rather nice: She is an old cleaning lady, basically. On their way to Betlehem, the three wise men stopped by and asked her to join them. She replied: “Sorry guys, too busy. You’ll just have to go without me”. La Befana was efficient though. After finishing her sweeping, she decided she would like to join the wise ones after all. But she was too late and the men had gone. So her day is Epiphany - 5 January. That’s when she comes out and searches for baby Jesus. In every house she looks, she leaves a present for the children.

So, all of a sudden, she doesn’t seem so scary any more, my little one decides. And perhaps La Befana will make it to Norway this year, even? Yeah, can always hope little one…… With the Dutch tradition of 5 December, Christmas Eve in Norway, Christmas Day in the UK and Befana Day in Italy…, well, the enterprising child could make every day a gift day…

I’ll post witchy pictures just as soon as I find out how….

Bratislava is also cosy with Christmas spirit all around. Not the elegance of Vienna – which I think must be unequalled – anywhere. But cosy.

And there’s a marked difference. I do feel I’m in Eastern Europe; it still exists. Nice to know not everything is the same everywhere – yet.

All kinds of things are on offer: hats, scarves, handbags, toys, lollipops, porcelain and ceramic cups for 170 koruna, Medovina for the same price. All in all, if price is an issue, Bratislava is probably an all-round better bet than Vienna.

There’s also a greater emphasis on food and drink here in Bratislava. The beer/vino/grog-tents on the old square are really more reminiscent of Oktoberfest in Munich: Narrow, red folding tables, a blue plastic rubbish bin next to each table. I’m glad they’re thinking clean-up, but those plastic bins really dominate the picture.

But the chocolate cafe (next to the brass doors of restaurant Roland) has an amazing chocolate selection and that incredible 4-tiered chocolate fountain with thick, gooey chocolate running down it - slowly and continuously.

Otherwise, Bratislava is foggy and cold this afternoon.

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Here it is: Stein-am-Rhein