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Machu Picchu and an Evil Salad

After white water rafting we checked into and out of our hostel at the same time. I hate doing that, but you have to when leaving at 5.30 the next morning. The train from Cusco takes 4 hours to Aguas Calientes, the nearest town to Machu Picchu. It´s actually not that far but it spends a long time zig-zagging backwards and fowards to get up the hill out of Cusco so you see the same thing over and over. Aguas is a funny town, part tourist trap, part shanty town. It´s clearly still getting used to the influx of tourists it receives since the train service started. About that, the train is $70 and entrance to Picchu is $60 if you don´t have a student card (I now have a fake one, apparently I study in Santiago de Goethe, wherever that is). It´s gone up something ridiculous like 300% in 5 years. The trains are owned and run by British Rail and some bad president sold off Machu Picchu to Chile! So not only can most Peruvians not afford to see it, it doesn´t even belong to them! Unbelievable.

Still, I guess I supported this ridiculous set up so I can´t talk.

Aguas Calientes literally translates to hot water because of the natural hot springs. I´d never been in one before so that was pretty cool, especially with the mountainous backdrop. I tried to ignore the scent of urine though, hoping it was just the minerals.

The next morning Pip and I headed to Picchu, we were so excited at finally seeing such a famous place. We had some time before meeting our guide so we wandered up to the site, apart from we couldn´t see it. Everyone was trying to work out where we should go when the clouds parted and we stood right in front of the famous ruins with the steep mountains in the background, magic. The view was only to last for a couple of minutes though.

Our guide was excellent, my favourite fact is that the Spanish never knew about this place. Seeing what they´d done to Cusco, the Incas kept it a complete secret. The city was abandoned for some unknown reason but it was never destroyed by the Spanish invaders like everywhere else.

We met up with Justine who had just done the 4 day trek, limping but very happy.

Apart from that brief moment earlier, the whole site had been covered in cloud and we were almost ready to go home when it totally cleared up and we climbed up to one of the highest points and sat staring at it for ages.

I must admit Machu Picchu wasn´t really on my list of things to do. I didn´t fancy the trek and I felt that I´d seen so many pictures that it might be a let down. I was so wrong, it´s the most awe-inspiring site I´ve ever seen.

We got back to Cusco late on Friday and went for dinner. By the time we got home food poisoning had set in. Now to most backpackers this would be no big deal but this doesn´t generally happen to me. The last time I threw up I was 14 when I drank a bottle of sherry, snogged the cutest boy in my year then threw up on his shoes. I just don´t have these problems. So I spent the night vomiting, how disgusting is that?! I swear I never ate anything that looked like that. Anyway, I spent Saturday in bed with a serious fever, I must admit that malaria crossed my mind, I might start back on those horrible tablets.

Much better now though, thank god, as we´ll be on a bus from 8pm tonight to 9am tomorrow. The next stop is Ica, on the coast, for a spot of sandboarding and dunebuggying, as you do. Oh, here are a couple of photos from the rafting and Machu Picchu, loads more under the my photos link.



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3 Responses to “Machu Picchu and an Evil Salad”

  1. 'tish Says:

    Hey Sharleen,
    Good to read you’re having an awesome time surviving (thieves are a bunch of hijos de putas de perros sucios). MK is such a blast, the cloud cover is both a curse and a blessing, when it clears it’s almost as if the Tommy Cooper of the Incas in a wooly fez (with tasteful llama print) is proclaiming over the ages “just like that jejeje”.

    Be careful in Ica, they don’t see many tourists and the older locals can be quite hostile. Huccachina is the place to stay the night, recommend Casa de Arena 1. They do the best buggy and sandboarding in town (I spent erm, 5 days there!). Driver choice is very very very important, look for a Spanish looking guy, very tanned, early 30s and always smoking. Complete nut case, but with your new taste for adventure, you won’t regret it.

    On a cultural note the Ica regional museum is definitely worth checking out cos they have a fantastic collection of cone headed metaller dreadlocked mummies ;)

    Have a great time,
    ’tish.

  2. Les Says:

    Hey mate,

    You forget the obvious - all salads are evil :O)

    I’ve done a Google Earth tour, following you around on your travels - people can download it (if they have Google Earth - it’s free) and have a look. It’s at http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lesrae/tour/tour.htm or click on my name above.

    Have fun out there

    Les

  3. Administrator Says:

    Hi Tish

    I know, it´s a bugger about the phone, especially after you put so much effort into getting the sim card to me.

    We´re actually in Huacachina now and staying at Casa de Arena! It´s great, what a strange place to end up in after Cusco, lieing by the pool surrounded by sand dunes. Off sand boarding this afternoon so I´ll let you know how it goes.

  4. Administrator Says:

    Les, that´s brilliant! Have seen google earth before but I haven´t got it in this internet cafe, will see if I can download it now.

    Thanks so much, can´t believe you did that.

    Take care

  5. tish Says:

    Les,
    I’m a vegetarian cos I hate the little b#stards :)

    Nice little Google Earth, I wrote a little plugin for Word Press that does similar thing using Google Maps:

    http://www.littleworld.co.uk/blog/?p=87

    Sharleen,
    By my calculations you’re two hours ago from the buggy rides. Remember, the dark always smoking Spanish driver. Don’t waste your time with the black guy or the gordo with the limp, they are far too conservative.

    Enjoy!

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