Our next stop was Dunbulla, a 2000 year old temple carved out from under a single massive rock. Each of the four of so separate temples are full of beautifully carved Buddha's and there is not a square inch that has escaped decoration, not even the gently sloping roof. The atmosphere inside the dimly light temples was spooky, charged with a strange energy (you gotta love photoshop). Outside, some naughty little monkeys were going about their business, snacking from piles of rubbish and grooming each other. We spent a little time watching them, before the crowds of curious schoolboys descended - our cue to head home for a little peace and quiet. The next day we jumped in the car early and made a beeline for the elephant orphanage at Pinnawarra.

We'd been seeing elephants almost daily, but this was our chance to pat the little ones and we were excited. As we drove into town, we passed "The Porcupine Woman" and had to stop and see the weird little fella's. She wanted some money for taking photo's, but we give her an old umbrella instead, she seemed pretty happy with the deal and an hour or so later when it started pissing down, she'd probably be very happy. We were looking for a place to shelter from the harsh mid-day sun, when we spotted a quiet, shady herb garden and went in for break. A 5th year Medicine student showed us the various traditional herbs and spices in the garden and explained some of the ways they have been used by the Ayurvedic healing system for the last 3000 years. We're given a sample of the various products and are treated to (all free) herbal tea's, a medicinal smoke and a traditional massage. Feeling relaxed and refreshed we headed back out, arriving at the orphanage just in time for the afternoon bath. I was offered a chance to jump in and wash one of the working elephants and happily obliged, feeling the elephants obvious delight in getting a damn good scrub. Watching the elephants play in the water was an amazing experience and it was easy to sit for a couple of hours and just watch. Although these animals weren't "free" as such, they seemed quite happy with the deal on offer - free food, scrubs and an adoring public in exchange for posing for the odd photo. Before we knew it, bathing time was over and the elephants headed up the road back to their comfy pens. Our Sri Lankan adventure was coming to it's end and as unforgettable as it was, we were both ready to leave.