For our first full day in Bangkok, we decided to tackle the massive area that contains the Grand Palace, Wat Praw Kaew (the home of the Emerald Buddha), and Wat Pho (the home of the Reclining Buddha). We managed to sleep in this morning despite the sound of traffic roaring down below on the street outside of our room. You can hear motorbikes and tuk-tuks honking all night - an indication of the late hours that Bangkok holds.

Around 9:30am we headed down to the restaurant of La Residence and enjoyed a complimentary breakfast. So far, we have loved this guesthouse. We were skeptical when we first read about it. Our first choice was the upscale Swiss Lodge around the corner from here, but they were sold out of discount rooms. After some searching around (and reading some glowing reviews) we opted for this place. It's dirt cheap (1700 baht a night with free breakfast), and they charge 100 baht a day for unlimited internet usage.

This morning over coffee, the manager gave us some pointers on getting to the Grand Palace. We walked over a few blocks, bought a 10-trip pass for the Sky Train and caught a ride to the Central Pier on the Chao Phraya. We were not familiar with the river boat system - but we had been warned not to accept offers from people claiming to give special prices for tickets.

As we approached the pier, we saw a boat loading passengers. It didn't have a colored flag on it (which would indicate that it was an express boat), so we boarded. As it headed across the river, we realized it was the wrong boat. It merely took people to the pier across the river. We wasted 8 baht and fifteen minutes as we rode back across the river to the original pier. Eventually, the correct boat arrived, but we didn't have small change. We were high-rolling with 1000 baht and 500 baht bills. The fare was 10 baht each.

We ran over to a desk to get change, but the boat left without us. Shaunna was starting to get a little frustrated with all this blind stumbling around trying to figure things out... as a typical man, I'm reluctant to ask for directions.. hehe..

Fifteen minutes more, and another boat arrived. Finally, we were off! The first you notice about Bangkok's waterways is the smell. They're dank, brown and filled with litter. All along the river we saw trash, floating bottles and the wreckage of longtail boats that had collided. Surprisingly, there were fish hopping around in the water.

The bank of the river is filled with an odd assortment of structures. It is lined with highrise buildings that tower over smaller homes and apartment complexes. Dirty shanty houses on stilts are sandwiched by gleeming luxury hotels. Floating restaurants snuggle up against temples that loom underneath offices. The contrast is stunning.

You can see into the homes of the people living on the water. Their backporches are cluttered with laundry lines and stacks of trash that spills out into the water. Occasionally you'll see people bathing or cleaning their dishes with the nasty water of the river. I've often complained about the swamp water we drink out of the taps in Texas, but the water in Bangkok makes me reconsider.

After twenty minutes we arrived at the Tha Tien pier, just a block away from Wat Pho. We hustled through the pier market and out to the gates of the temple. After purchasing a ticket (200 baht each), we waved off the guides and headed towards the entrance of the building with the Reclining Buddha.

We've read stories and seen pictures, but seeing it first hand is breathtaking. I had no idea how immense this statue is. The books say 45 meters, but being a Yank, I have no idea what that means. This thing is huge... you have to take multiple pictures of it, because it's impossible to get it all in one frame..

View image
View image
View image

The bottom of his feet is covered with mother of pearl designs, and the walls and cieling have beautiful murals that depict stories of the Buddha.

Outside, we wandered through the grounds and observed the gorgeous statues that guard the gates and entrances to the various temples in this area. The grounds are covered with various chedi, and Wat Pho hosts the most images of Buddha than any other temple in Thailand.

View image
View image
View image

We took tons of pictures and spent a good hour wandering around in awe. The heat and humidity were beginning to have an affect on us, so we stepped outside and bought some water. By the time we made it to the Grand Palace, we were weak. I was feeling light-headed and trembly, so we stepped inside a store to buy mango juice, more water and a light snack. After soaking up the AC for fifteen minutes or so, we headed back out to the gates.

The first thing we noticed as we arrived was a line to a building were tourists could leave their sandals and "borrow" shoes to cover their feet. We had heard that you had to dress modestly before entering the Grand Palace grounds so we came prepared: feet covered, long pants, shoulders covered, hats removed for certain buildings. Thai people, on the other hand, didn't have to abide by these rules. Another interesting tidbit of info is that foriegners have to pay for entrance, whereas Thai people get in for free. Citizenship has its benefits I suppose...

This large complex houses the old palace for the king and a variety of temples. It took us almost two hours to really observe this place, and we took a ton of pictures...

View image
View image
View image
View image
View image
View image
View image

We were, once again, feeling a bit weak and affected by the heat, so we headed out in search of a place to eat. I wasn't feeling too picky. I could have eaten from any food vendor on the side of the road, but Shaunna was in need of AC and a clean toilet. We finally found a clean, AC-cooled place called the S&P Bakery, which had a good view of the river. We ordered some spicy papaya salad, phad thai, jungle curry, and cold drinks. Shaunna got the iced caffe granita while I opted for a iced green tea latte.

We eventually made our way back down the road to see the City Pillar, which is a temple dedicated to the spirits of the city. It's basically the original cornerstone of the old city, and people come to worship and pay respects. Another temple nearby hosts a variety of beautiful Buddha images..

View image
View image

After hours of walking through the streets and markets in this area, we were totally pooped. In planning our days here, we knew we should devote one whole day to this place. Considering the heat (I sweated like a pig all day) and considering the massive distance we walked, we retired to the hotel to shower up and prepare for dinner.