Last Friday, I said goodbye to friends over several beers in a Dutch-themed pub in Chinatown in central London. Tomorrow, I fly from London to Kathmandu. My excitement is growing as the departure date draws near, but somehow it still does not feel completely real; part of me just does not believe that I’m actually doing this. I’ve had this feeling before, on previous holidays, and the moment of realisation usually comes when I step onto the gangway between the airport terminal and the plane. This is the point when I realise that there’s no turning back. By the time I get to my seat I’m often thinking, “What am I doing here? I should be at work!” Then I remember what I’m doing there, releasing all the feelings of excitement, anticipation and apprehension, which keep me rather on edge until they can be calmed by a couple of mini-bottles of red wine. For the rest of the flight, I gradually think less about home and more about my destination.

For a few months now I’ve been keeping an eye on the political situation in Nepal. The Maoist rebels called off their ceasefire in August, and since then have resumed their campaign of attacks on government forces. There have been bombings in Kathmandu, and while there are no reports of tourists being deliberately targeted, there is always the danger of being caught in the crossfire. Very little seems to be known about the Maoists: they are demanding a new constitution, containing the option of abolishing the monarchy; they are inspired by Mao Zedong, and want to create a communist state; they are said to model themselves on Peru’s Shining Path guerrillas. They control large areas of the country, but I have no idea about their level of popular support. I imagine, however, that most people just want to see an end to a conflict that has claimed more than 8,000 lives.

The Maoists have declared a temporary truce to coincide with the Nepali festival of Dasain, starting on October 2nd – the day that I arrive in Kathmandu. Also known as Durga Puja, the Dasain festival celebrates the goddess Durga’s victory over the forces of evil. Durga is a fierce deity, usually depicted brandishing an array of weapons in her many arms, and riding on a tiger. She is a manifestation of the goddess Parvati, who is normally depicted in a peaceful aspect. Parvati is the consort of Shiva, the destroyer and re-creator. In keeping with Durga’s taste for blood, Dasain involves hundreds of animals getting their heads lopped off in Kot Square. I have yet to decide whether or not I’ll go along to watch the festivities.

After I arrive in Nepal, I’ll spend a couple of days exploring Kathmandu, then I’m off trekking for a week in the Helambu region, north of the capital. Assuming that I manage to avoid falling off a mountain, my next blog entry should be when I return from the trek. For now, though, I’d just like to say thanks to everyone who’s helped keep my spirits up while I’ve been organising this trip (you know who you are).

It’s time to go…