ENTRIES FROM THIS CATEGORY




December 02, 2003

Adventures in Border Crossing

DAY 43: Navid and I were out of the hostel in the Guayaquil suburbs before eight and caught a city bus to the main bus terminal. A fake Christmas tree stood in the center of the main hall and for...

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Posted by Erik at 09:00 PM
View/Add Comments (16) | Category: Ecuador, Peru
December 03, 2003

On the Road Again

DAY 44: I bid a fond farewell to Navid when we left the hostel before eight in the morning. He hopped on a mototaxi which brought him to the airport for his flights to Cuzco. For the first time since...

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Posted by Erik at 07:00 PM
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December 08, 2003

Tomb Raider

DAY 45: In 1987, when most people were discovering the idea of boiling rabbits in Fatal Attraction, a group of archaeologists discovered new ruins just 30 km southeast of Chiclayo, Peru. This find contained the tombs of Sipan, an ancient...

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Posted by Erik at 09:44 PM
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Eastward Ho!

DAY 46: Since no roads go to the Amazonian jungle city of Iquitos, there are only two ways to get there: by plane or -- if you have time to kill like me -- via a cargo boat up the...

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Posted by Erik at 09:54 PM
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A Fresh Young Boy

DAY 47: The sun came up over Tarapoto and broke through the morning mist, revealing a pretty town surrounded by mountains. I got dressed and sorted out and went looking for a place for breakfast -- there was one on...

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Posted by Erik at 10:06 PM
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A New Shipmate

DAY 48: The sun broke through the river fog to reveal what I didn't want to see: through my "first class" "window," I saw that we still hadn't left the port in Yurimaguas....

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Posted by Erik at 10:13 PM
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December 09, 2003

Tally Me Banana

DAY 49: The sun was already up when our cargo ship stopped in Maripoto, a tiny village on the riverbank where the Rio Huallaga meets the Rio Marañon. It was the first of many stops along the way where we...

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Posted by Erik at 02:07 PM
View/Add Comments (15) | Category: Peru

Houses On Stilts

DAY 50: You would think that Amazonian city of Iquitos, the largest city in the world without any connecting roads, would be reminiscent of a lost Shangri-La or an ancient city out of a Tarzan set. The fact is, Iquitos,...

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Posted by Erik at 02:36 PM
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Urban Jungle

DAY 51: Like Tarzan swinging from vine to vine in the jungle, I swung from person-I-could-possibly-trust to person-I-could-possibly-trust. With the girls off on a flight back to Lima, I only had Richard to turn to for advice -- which was...

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Posted by Erik at 11:38 PM
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December 15, 2003

Welcome to the Jungle

DAY 52: I bid farewell to the hostel desk attendant -- who, hearing that I was from New York, assumed I was Puerto Rican -- and rode with Andres to the docks. He put me in a motorboat taxi for...

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Posted by Erik at 10:22 PM
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Monkey Business

DAY 53: My lip had swollen down about half way from the night before, and sensation was coming back, which was a good thing being mistletoe season -- not that there was any mistletoe around. In the steamy jungle, it...

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Posted by Erik at 10:32 PM
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In Deeper With A Really Big Knife

DAY 54: Alone in my hut in my mosquito net tent, I heard rustling outside, followed by the sounds of small footsteps of monkeys. Suddenly one of them landed on the roof of my mosquito net and so I grabbed...

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Posted by Erik at 10:45 PM
View/Add Comments (5) | Category: Peru

Slimy Yet Satisfying

DAY 55: Juan and I woke at dawn and left our things in camp to go on a morning hike. We walked along a trail, on logs, through creeks, looking at the different medicinal plants. Juan showed me a coconut...

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Posted by Erik at 11:00 PM
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Survivor: The Amazon

DAY 56: I woke up around three in the morning to the sound of a distant static. Gradually the white noise got closer and closer until it started pouring rain in camp. The wind blew out all the mosquito candles,...

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Posted by Erik at 11:10 PM
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December 16, 2003

Amazon Dot Com

DAY 57: I was off to drop my laundry off in Iquitos to wash out the stench of vinegar-flavored yogurt and bug spray, when I ran into Richard on the street again. It was weird, because the run-in didn't feel...

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Posted by Erik at 09:41 PM
View/Add Comments (22) | Category: Peru
December 17, 2003

Looking for Christmas in Lima

DAY 58: Call me old-fashioned, but during the holiday season, I like it to feel a little bit like Christmas -- you know, with the trees and decorations and people following shoppers leaving the mall to snatch their parking space,...

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Posted by Erik at 12:18 PM
View/Add Comments (23) | Category: Peru
December 18, 2003

Across Lima and into Mordor

DAY 59: The Lord of the Rings trilogy is a phenomenon in many countries around the globe, Peru included. Tolkien's world is very much a part of Peruvian pop culture as it is in the States, and with the worldwide...

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Posted by Erik at 10:54 AM
View/Add Comments (28) | Category: Peru
December 19, 2003

The Taxis of Miraflores

DAY 60: Just south of Lima is the affluent oceanside suburb of Miraflores, a place that despite its fancy retaurants and hotels, is suggested as "the better place to stay for budget travelers" according to Lonely Planet. Perhaps this is...

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Posted by Erik at 11:19 AM
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December 21, 2003

A Pair of Turtles

DAY 61: I was writing a rough draft in the rooftop cafe of the Lima hostel early in the morning when two new pet animals, a pair of turtles, wandered in and walked under the tables and chairs. It took...

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Posted by Erik at 09:55 AM
View/Add Comments (6) | Category: Peru

Sweet, Sour and Sandy

DAY 62: Ica, capital city of the department of the same name, is known for two things: its massive and dramatic surrounding sand dunes (picture below), and its pisco brandy and wine-producing vineyards. The easiest way to see them both...

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Posted by Erik at 12:46 PM
View/Add Comments (24) | Category: Peru
December 22, 2003

NAZCAR

DAY 63: Nights in pisco country are great, but the mornings after aren't so much. With the absence of my usual greasy Hangover Helpers in New York -- Union Square's McDonald's, Flatiron District's Eisenberg's Sandwich Shop or Chinatown's Wo...

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Posted by Erik at 01:34 PM
View/Add Comments (33) | Category: Peru
December 24, 2003

Where They Drew The Line

DAY 64: I was lying in bed in the darkness of my room with no windows when there was a knock on the door. It was my driver for my transport to the airport -- an hour and a half...

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Posted by Erik at 12:50 PM
View/Add Comments (20) | Category: Peru
December 25, 2003

On the Trail of Lara Croft

DAY 65: In 1996, the adventure video game Tomb Raider was born, starring the full-lipped, big-breasted virtual heroine Lara Croft. The gun-toting Lara adventured around the world in search of artifacts like a modern, female Indiana Jones. The popularity of...

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Posted by Erik at 02:20 PM
View/Add Comments (16) | Category: Peru
December 26, 2003

Horses for Hangovers

DAY 66: It's one thing to be hungover after a night of boozing, but it's another to be hungover when you haven't yet acclimatized to the thin oxygen 11,000 ft. above sea level. I woke up feeling just awful (but...

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Posted by Erik at 06:24 PM
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Christmas in Cusco

DAY 67: I woke up to the sound of firecrackers in the streets early in the morning -- the kids had been setting them off all night. For me, the sounds of Christmas morning sounded more like the sounds of...

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Posted by Erik at 07:47 PM
View/Add Comments (9) | Category: Peru
December 27, 2003

Catch Him If You Can

DAY 68: Some people would say that the best invention since sliced bread is the "snooze" button. You know it and its contribution to Mankind -- why wake up and face reality when all you have to do is simply...

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Posted by Erik at 12:07 PM
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December 28, 2003

Two Women, A Llama and The Bird

DAY 69: I was having breakfast at the cafe across the street from the hostel when I noticed the same two women I had noticed at various places in town almost everyday. They were two local women who dressed in...

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Posted by Erik at 08:13 PM
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December 29, 2003

The (Andean) Village People

DAY 70: "Guess what," I asked Lara at an early morning breakfast before our day trip to the Sacred Valley. "I got a traditional Andean band to play 'Y.M.C.A.' tonight at 8:30." "Excellent," she said. We were both looking forward...

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Posted by Erik at 04:09 PM
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December 30, 2003

The Redemption Cookie

DAY 71: I was up by seven o'clock in the morning to see Lara off before she left with her transport to her 4-day/3-night trek to Machu Picchu -- a trek I had already done in 2001. It was her...

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Posted by Erik at 05:42 PM
View/Add Comments (17) | Category: Peru
January 02, 2004

New Friend For New Year's

DAY 72: Arequipa, Peru's second largest city, is nestled in the valley of three volcanoes. The lava of these volcanoes have hardened over geological history to form the white-colored rock known as sillar, which many of the buildings were made...

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Posted by Erik at 02:49 PM
View/Add Comments (9) | Category: Peru
January 03, 2004

Decisions

DAY 73: MY LAST DAY OF 2003 started at one o'clock in the morning. My alarm woke me up twenty minutes before my 1:20 pick up from my guide who would take me and Heidi down Colca Canyon, the deepest...

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Posted by Erik at 11:58 AM
View/Add Comments (24) | Category: Peru

New Year, New Adventure

DAY 74: Usually I wake up on New Year's Day hungover, with a feeling like I am at the bottom of the deepest canyon in the world. When I woke up at 4 a.m. feeling that same way, I realized,...

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Posted by Erik at 01:12 PM
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My First Stolen Item

DAY 75: Being in a No Internet Zone (aka N.I.Z.) for two days or more often forces me to take an entire day to sit in front of a computer to catch up on The Blog. On my last day...

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Posted by Erik at 01:32 PM
View/Add Comments (44) | Category: Peru
January 06, 2004

Bargain Hunter: Puno

DAY 76: Dave the Australian was up and out of our room by 7:15 in the morning, less than four hours since we checked in, for his day tour of Lake Titicaca. He left me a ten soles note on...

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Posted by Erik at 07:16 PM
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School Days On The Titty Side

DAY 77: Lake Titicaca, the lake that Simpsons' creator Matt Groening once called a place whose name is guaranteed to make kids snicker, lies on the border of Peru and Bolivia at an elevation of over 12,500 ft above sea...

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Posted by Erik at 08:14 PM
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The Orange Hat

DAY 78: I woke up on a rainy morning on Isla Amantani feeling a little bit better from the night before. Basilia came to our room with a breakfast of bread, eggs and muņa tea, and then bid us an...

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Posted by Erik at 08:58 PM
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January 07, 2004

Saved By A Twelve-Year-Old

DAY 79: I was awake by 6 a.m. feeling a little bit better from my illness. I ate a mango for the extra vitamins and gathered all my belongings. As always, I was amazed when I looked around the room...

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Posted by Erik at 02:40 PM
View/Add Comments (31) | Category: Bolivia, Peru

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