Categories
Recent Entries

Archives

January 07, 2005

Now for something completely different...

Hi All!

I am in Phnom Penh right now. I got in last night after a 5 hour bus ride. Was accosted by the moto drivers as usual as soon as the bus reached Psar Thmei, but shook them off and walked a bit. I was so glad to get settled into a decent room, it was a very long day.

I started off the day by taking the school supplies out to a school probably about 8-10 kilometers from Sihanoukville. It is a very poor school, maybe 10' x 15', with only a thatch roof and one thatched wall with banana leaves sort of woven together. The rest was wide open to the elements with cows nearby and chickens pecking and clucking and laying under the desks. The desks are more like bleacher seats with a taller one in front of you as you sit down so you can write or read, desk style. There was one smallish simple dry erase board, and that was really about it. That was the only "modern" thing about the school. No electricity, nothing. My moto driver and I had to wait for almost 2 hours for the teacher to show up. I almost gave up thinking he wouldn't come that day, because apparently they don't go by any schedule and teach only every couple of days, whenever they can. When he finally arrived, he was probably about 20 years old and his name is Petra. He seemed genuinely happy that I brought the things I had, and thanked me many times. It really didn't feel like I was giving much, maybe $15-20 (worth in American money) in supplies, some small paper notebooks of about 60 pages with Disney and Asian characters on the cover, glittery pencils, erasers, and silly stickers for the teacher to put on tests that the kids do well on. He asked me if I was Christian, assuming that that was why I brought the supplies. I stammered because I was surprised by the question, but told him that I just wanted to do it to help the children, not because I have any ulterior motive, (wanting them to convert from their native Buddhism). So, after that very brief encounter, I felt awkward so decided to leave. But it felt good to do something to help. My belief is that if everyone were to do something small when they can, the world would be a better place and Cambodia needs the help. I waved goodbye and had to get going, the clock was ticking. I still had to pack for the bus trip, pay my hotel bill, etc., before catching the bus for Phnom Penh.

I decided to leave the beach so that I could be in Phnom Penh on the weekend before heading on to Siem Reap in a few days. So, after checking email and paying my various bills I took the 1:00 bus. It went along fine until about 1 1/2 hours into it. I remembered from the trip Sean and I took that they stopped once someplace about halfway along the route, but it was taking forever with the roads constantly blocked by slow moving traffic and the bus only trundling along at about 40 mph. Lots of large equipment or trucks loaded down with everything you can imagine and even once having to stop for a group of water buffalo that decided to stop and relax in the middle of the road. I was really regretting having had an iced coffee a couple hours before, and wishing God would put me out of my misery, my bladder was so full. You know, you might not believe me but I even broke out into a cold sweat and had goosebumps because I had to "go" so bad, (no joke). I finally broke down and approached the driver. With pathetic Khmer I asked him to stop the bus to let me go to the bathroom. When he didn't understand, I was lucky that a young woman sitting right next to where I was interceded for me and talked to him as my interpreter. He told me that it would only be about another half hour drive ahead until the scheduled stop I have already described. I gritted my teeth and went back to my seat, embarrassed. After about 10 more minutes I couldn't stand it any longer and didn't care about being embarrassed anymore, it was all I could take. I went back up, and the girl said that the driver said there were no bathrooms nearby, and I said 'I know, a bush will do just fine.' So, he stopped, and I had to jump down into about a 5 foot ravine and walk about 20 paces so no one could see me from behind some brush. What a relief! I didn't look at anyone when I pulled myself back up the hill and onto the bus, but no one seemed annoyed, and everything was business as usual again right after we took off again. It was quite a bit longer then only a half hour by the time we got to the stop, so I was glad I didn't try to hold out. I hope this will be the last of my potty problems! It was no fun at all, I promise you!

We finally stopped at a small roadside market where they sell soup and snacks. They give you about 15 minutes to eat before getting back onto the bus. I bought a green mango that is mostly sour and only a little bit sweet and a lot like a green apple. It comes pre-sliced with this salt that has ground up chili peppers in it, and dipping pieces in it makes a nice combination with the fruit. They give you a large toothpick-like stick to pick up the chunks. The girl sold it to me for 2,500 Riel, just over 50 cents. Kind of a high price to pay, but I thought 'what the heck,' she's an entrepreneur and I can help her out a bit.

We continued on, and I saw a lot of the rural Cambodian contryside again. There are mainly just dry rice fields since it is that season now, and various animals; Oxen, water buffalos, chickens which are everywhere and so are mongrel looking dogs. Simple huts abound, and they are all virtually the same. There are occasional homes that are slightly larger with colorful flowers and plants all around, but that is the exception rather than the rule. People who live there are usually too busy just trying to survive to concern themselves with cosmetic changes to their homes.

As we approached the city and were still 40 kilometers out of town there was a "Welcome to Phnom Penh" sign, and sure enough, that is right where the bad traffic began. We passed by some very large factories. I am fairly certain they were garment factories, and it was getting close to 5:00pm at the time. Obviously, people were headed home from work and the streets were blocked for all of the bicycles, motos and songathews, (Motorcyle wagon things). I even saw a guy with a pool table on the back of a motorcycle. Yes, a pool table-- an entire pool table. Don't ask me how he did it, I couldn't tell you. There were also some couple hundred young women leaving work for the day who all apparently worked at the same company, because they were all wearing hot pink headscarves. Try to imagine complete bedlam, and a throng of people choking the traffic down to a near standstill. That is what it was like. We crawled all the rest of the distance into central Phnom Penh. It took well over an hour to go maybe 15-20 miles.

So, now I am here. I went shopping for the first time today at Psah Tmei, and it was nice most of the time except that I am a huge target for any beggar. I've decided one rule for myself: I will usually give to those who don't bother me or try to force me to give. I have had people literally follow me yelling things like "Madame! You buy!!" and that gets old in a hurry. What I hate the most is when I am trying to enjoy a meal and they come up to sell something or insist that you give them money... It's tough to want to give to them in that case. It's like you aren't allowed a meal in peace in Phnom Penh if you have white skin. Do they bother the Khmers? Nope, not really with very few exceptions that I saw.

I just went to Wat Phnom for the first time just a bit ago. I couldn't enjoy it for all of the people trying to sell me something or get me to free birds from a cage for luck. Yes, I did fall for the gimmick. I paid a dollar to free two very small colorful birds. They looked very unhealthy in that cage, so I decided to give 2 of them a chance. They were so weak that when I took them from the cage, I gently layed them down on the cement banister next to me. They appeared to be a male and female from the plumage and they both just lay there, not moving even though they were free. The girl selling the birds kept motioning that I should kind of "toss" them into the air, but I refused, just wanting them to leave of their own accord. They stayed there like that for about 3 minutes until one guy that was talking to me about Wat Phnom (for money of course) got impatient and made a motion that scared them and they finally weakly flew away. I was kind of irritated that he would do that since I was the one who purchased their freedom and wanted them to leave in a gentle, happy sort of way. I also felt sad wondering how many of them die in those cages waiting for someone to free them.

Here are a couple things to throw in for no reason whatsoever:

I can't seem to find diet cola of any kind here. They have regular everything, but no diet. Maybe it's because there just aren't any fat Khmer, and diet anything is a foreign idea to them. They do have Grass Jelly soda, but I'm not so sure I can drink that as a substitute! I mean c'mon, I just want my diet! I've only been able to get my hands on about 4 of them since I left home. Diet Coke, diet Pepsi... I'm not picky! :) I soon leaned to ask for any drink, "Ot skaaw" which means without sugar. They ususally look at me kind of funny for a moment and then quickly start to dig through their large ice coolers for anything for a sale, offering this or that... but not usually what I want.

I meant to mention before now that almost every moto or person that I talk with who knows enough english to speak to me wants to know if Americans know or even care about the tsunami. I have said 'yes' time after time, that it is a very big news story at home as well and that the average American cares very much about what happened. They seem to feel relieved when they hear me say that, and somewhat surprised.

On the same subject, especially when I first arrived in Sihoukville there were a lot of television announcements urging people from any country in the region to contact friends and family at home so that they would know they survived the tsunami. I saw missing posters for a handsome Swede guy up in a bar I went to in Sihanoukville. It's kind of sad because I am sure there were quite a few people who were generally headed to southern Thailand beaches and then maybe for a week or so here in Cambodia afterward. Many people do that sort of thing; they just come to Asia with some money and a backpack and only a very loose itinerary to travel for several months throughout Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Viet Nam. I met many people doing just that. So I feel very badly for the families of those that have no idea where their loved ones were at the time and are waiting for the phone to ring. They are showing the devastation non-stop here on the international version of CNN. By the way, I must mention that I can't stand that woman, Christian Amanpour, and as she was reporting from the beach there in Thailand I was wishing a very tiny tsunami would rise up and wash just her out to sea, never to be heard from again. :)


Notes to self: meeting with Chea, having dinner and moto morse code.

Posted by Shonda on January 7, 2005 01:04 PM
Category:
Comments

Sounds like a better day than some of the others! good.

Silent suffering is 'for the birds!' (punn intended).

We ought to look for more used laptops, etc. to take back there.

I wonder about a 'hobby farm' there? Out of the question probably. So many neato things can be grown there.

:-)

Posted by: Ricky on January 7, 2005 10:48 PM

Hi, sounds like you're holding your own very well!! Hope you get to see something really great today.. love to read your blogs, keep 'em coming and take care, hugs, 'mom'

Posted by: Sherrill on January 8, 2005 01:53 AM

Well, I'm glade that you made a decision to have the bus stopped, otherwise the bus would be flood it due to the bumpy road. And remember, 1/2 hour Cambodian it's almost mean 1/2 of a day. Have fun.

Posted by: Chantha on January 8, 2005 05:12 PM

sounds like you are really enjoying it, I am out the door top go find a USB open on Sat to deposit Ricky's cash, in the meanwhile feel free to use some of my deposit for his requests, should be able to deposit today, if not then by Monday, had some snow last night at Sylvan and out Powell past 122nd.. some stuck... bought as new show snovel...

Posted by: dad on January 9, 2005 04:55 AM

Sounds like you are having a great time. I read your story about that girl asking you what the word for heroin was... crazy. I just came back to work, I have been out due to a pinched nerve in my back. I could use one of those massages! I have been to the chiropracter every other day for the last two weeks, I am much better now. Have fun! Be careful! G.

Posted by: gtribe on January 10, 2005 11:37 AM

Very good writing there. Love the title especially :) Remember to keep the sand out. I'll vave a gallon of diet soda waiting for you when you get back. Looking foward to seeing you soon. The stars are not as bright when you are far away.
M

Posted by: LuckyIrishman on January 16, 2005 08:22 AM
Email this page
Email this entry to:


Your email address:


Message (optional):




Designed & Hosted by the BootsnAll Travel Network