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December 12, 2004

The Back of the Boat

So I crossed over into Laos! Crossed at the Mekong river... and let me tell you it was easy... almost scairly too easy! There was no one who cared if you stopped to check your passport on your way out of Thailand before you made your way down to the small boats, and then even less of no one on the other side to make sure that you checked yourself into Laos! It is pretty much just on the honor system that you make sure you do it your self and don't just walk right past the border check points!!!!

Nicola and I spent the night in the small border town of Huay Xai, nothing too exciting. We got up early the next morning and headed out to the slow boat launch area, determined to get the back of the boat, because we had heard from another traveler in the last few days that that is the "good" place to be on the long two day boat journey. However, finding the back of the boat was harder than it seemed. Nicola went down to scope things out while I bought our tickets. But there were two back of the boat areas. Uh oh, we were not sure which one was recommended to us, the WAY back near the engine where there were no seats or benches and almost no windows, but you could sit down on the floor and stretch out, or the back of the boat area behind all the benches where you could still sit on a bench, but there was an open area to spread out in in front of you. We opted for this area, and set down the blankets on the seat to act as our seat cushions that we had purchased the day before to try to lesson our bottoms from going to sleep during the long journey. However as soon as the first Lao family came, they walked right past us and went straight to the WAY back of the boat...oh well, I guess that had been the prime spot to sit! But we were happy where we were...even after sitting there for 2 hours before we left. The boat next to us was filled with Lao women who were drinking and singing up a storm. It must have been some sort of birthday or wedding or engagement party. The whole boat was filled only with women, and two women were walking up and down the aisles pouring shot after shot and glass after glass of different alcohols for everyone. Some women would take a sip, then spit it out into the water and then pour the rest of the cup out over the side of the boat. They were all totally drunk as is.

Finally just when I thought we were going to leave because our boat was filled to the brim, another group of about 20 travelers showed up to get on our boat. I had no idea where they were going to sit!!!! Plastic patio chairs were put in front of us to make another make shift asile right down the middle...there went some of our leg room. Some more went into the way back, and everyone just crunched up even more with each other! We all fit...and finally we were off!

We sailed down the river at a slow speed....which was fine with me, I saw many of the speed boats, but more correctly heard many of the speed boats, fly by, all of their passengers wearing helmets for that scary ride, no thanks...I'll go slow! It was not a boring ride at all. There were plenty of people to talk to. The whole back was filled with Australians who were drinking the whole way. Passed by some amazing scenery of rock formations, mountains, small villages, and locals fishing and bathing in Mekong River.

At sunset we stopped at Pakbeng to spend the night. I scurried off to get Nicola and I a room while she got our bags. We checked in, but right after that we read on the wall in our room that there were HUGE rats there!!!! Yuck! I saw one scurry up the mountain behind our place while we were eating dinner! YUCK! So Nicola asked the manager about the rats, using body actions a scarf for a tail, and noises, and he replied in perfect English "No, the rats won't come into your room!" But we still kept the light on to sleep, and this way we didn't hear or see another rat!

Got up the next morning to catch our boat. Sat in the back again! Same same again but different water! Today we stopped a little before reaching Luang Prabang to go into a cave. At one point the boat got stuck on some shallow land. Kids from a near town were jumping in the water and swimming out to help our boat get back on its way!

Thats all. We arrived to Luang Prabang just as the sun was setting on the Mekong. Phew. Two long days but spent with great company in the back of the boat!

Posted by annawojo on December 12, 2004 04:42 AM
Category: Laos
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