Traveling to Dolanji seems sketchy at best. I'm on the train now to Kalka, which left New Delhi at 6 am. I think by 10:30 we'll be in Kalka and the train leaves for Shimla at 12:10. the cockroaches that roam the seats and interior of the train make it no more pleasant and the food meager at best, though at least it's safe - bread and omelette.

I don't even know what or how I'll find anything once the train ends and this unknown scares me - I suppose I could turn around and go back the way I came. Trains are so much much better than the roads here.

My focus is even unclear for my project. Aside from the seeming insurmountable task of finding an english/tibetan translator, I don't know anything more specific than my supposed topic of studying "Bon in the west." who even knows if there are actually teachers there who have taught in the west. And how do I introduce myself? Just walk right in the front door and say hi, could you please take part of your time and answer my stupid academic questions?

Still I've had at least a little background training on thinking in this subject because of the Buddhism in dialogue with the west class last quarter.

----

'chips, biscuit, chewing gum, chocolate?' the man rolls together in a well-rehearsed verse that he has said a thousand times.

'chips, biscuit' as though asking a question, he pauses in front of me and shifts his basket of goods on his shoulder; his shirt worn black where it rests against his shoulder. I look a ways out the window and he moves past me. I finished Eragon and of course now I regret it, I want to read the second one, Eldest.

'chai tea bag and chai chai'