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December 09, 2004

A Smooth Drake?

When I went to bed that first night, the waters didn't seem very turbulent. Even so, I took some seasickness pills anyway, just to be safe. In the middle of the night, I was woken up by the drawers in the nightstand sliding open and slamming closed because the boat was rocking so much. Because of the way my bed was oriented in the room, I was rocking head to toe, instead of side to side. I guess side to side rocking would have probably thrown me off the bed, so I suppose if I had to pick one, rocking head to toe is safer, but either way, I didn't sleep much. I tried, but by the time Laurie announced the morning wake up call, I felt sick.

Lauries wake up calls were a great way to get up in the morning. He would get on the intercom, say "Good morning, the time is 6:30am and breakfast will be served in the dining hall in half an hour." He would announce our location, the weather outside and always end with some kind of profound saying meant to make us think about life. Of course I can't think of any of them right now...

At breakfast that morning, it was obvious that I was not the only one feeling sick, since there were not nearly as many people at breakfast as were at dinner the previous night. It was funny watching people wobble around, unable to walk in a straight line. Members of the staff kept saying we were lucky to be having a "Smooth Drake," that even though we were rolling some, we didn't have the waves crashing into the ship, which is when it gets REALLY rough. Eek.

Since we were going to be at sea for at least two days getting to the continent, the agenda for both days was basically to eat, sleep, watch seabirds at the stern of the ship, listen to lectures given by the expedition staff, and concentrate on not being sick. I did very well at eating, and the seasickness pills helped me with the sleeping. Unfortunately, although I did physically attend every lecture, I had a hard time staying awake because of the pills. And as for not being sick, wel... I didn't actually throw up that much but I constantly felt like I was going to, which is worse. If that was a smooth Drake I hate to see what a rough Drake is like.

By the end of the second day at sea, we had reached the outer islands of the peninsula and were trying to cross over into the Bismark Strait, to get in between the islands and the Peninsula itself. As we entered, we came upon water that had almost a uniform layer of small "bergy bits" as they are called. As we continued, they bergy bits got bigger and bigger, and soon we found ourselves in pack ice unable to go any further. The Orlova is ice strengthened, but not an ice breaker. We had to turn around and find another way into the channel.

The captain turned the ship around and we headed back along the ice edge, looking for a way in, but it wasn't looking very promising. The pack ice looked pretty consistant, and I was starting to get worried that we wouldn't be able to get in. That is the excitement of Antarctica, that the ice and wind control where you can and can't go. But that is also the frusterating part about Antarctica, that the ice and wind control where you can and can't go. As we headed back along the ice edge, it was getting late and people were starting to go to bed. I stayed up and watched a movie in the lounge and around 11:30 went outside to see how the seas were looking. The water looked silky calm with just some undulating waves, there were bergy bits scattered around the water, and the sky looked like it was on fire. It was probably the most spectacular sunset I have ever seen. Over the next 20 minutes, I took about 20 photos, but I'll only post a few of my favorites.

If you enjoyed reading this entry, please post a comment. I like to know who is out there e-traveling with me! Thanks!

Posted by msshell on December 9, 2004 04:14 PM
Category: Antarctica
Comments

HI EVERYONE! I´m trying to catch up, I really am. I reluctantly left Ushuaia today and I'm now in Buenos Aires. As usual, once I step foot into a big city, I look for a way out. I'll probably be flying somewhere else in a couple days, destination TBD. But until then, I'll be frantically working on telling y'all about Antarctica. It was the most fantastic trip of my life. Seriously. You must go there.

CONGRATULATIONS to Susan and Justin! Can someone email me her cell phone number? I don't have it.

Posted by: Michelle on December 9, 2004 09:13 PM

The Pictures of the sunset were amazing. I could only image the look and feeling of walking out on deck and seeing such a beautiful site. More incredible is capturing it on film. You sure you like being an engineer? You may want to think about a new career as a photographer.

Hey Chris L. You better watch out. Michelle is going to put you out of a job!!

Posted by: jeff on December 9, 2004 10:17 PM

hi michelle! where are those adorable little penguin feet? are they here? we had a great time with you on our trip of a lifetime...especially with scrabble and the litter. i'm enjoying your accountings of the adventures. visit us in san pedro! Juli

Posted by: Juli Smith on December 10, 2004 07:16 PM

here's the morning wisdom from Laurie i liked the most: "Before you criticize a man, walk a mile in his shoes. That way, he'll be a mile away...and barefoot."

Posted by: Juli Smith on December 10, 2004 07:20 PM

Amazing!!!!

Posted by: Kellie on December 12, 2004 05:34 AM

hey, i just realized that these sunset photos are also sunrise photos because the sun never really went down on some of those days. maybe that's why they are so awesome. duh.

Posted by: Juli Smith on December 12, 2004 12:57 PM

KELLIE: Hey! Hope you weren't offended by me calling Antarctica the REAL land down under.... :)

Posted by: Michelle on December 12, 2004 04:21 PM

JULI: Have you printed and framed your penguin feet yet? You didn't happen to write down Lauries profound morning sayings did you?

Posted by: Michelle on December 12, 2004 04:22 PM

lol. yeah juli wrote down every single word of laurie's morning sayings. she was sitting straight up, pen in hand, ready to transcribe at 6:30 a.m., daily!

Posted by: el en on December 13, 2004 01:02 AM
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