15

Puerto Ayora, Ecuador

November 6, 2004:

I´m writing this post from Puerto Ayora, the main town (pop. approx. 10,000) in the Galapagos on the island of Santa Cruz (http://www.discovergalapagos.com/map.htmland). Had you any doubts lingering in the back of your mind as to the appropriate sentiments you should feel towards yours truly at this moment, I would strongly advise you to give in to envy, jealousy and loathing and to go right ahead and hate me.

I´d hate me too if I weren´t me.

I´m typing this update rather quickly, as my 6-day cruise through the islands departs in approximately 45 minutes. Here she is: http://www.galahost.com/fleet/superior/freeenterprise.html. I was able to get a last minute deal for approximately $510 dollars, with free snorkel equipment thrown in (they normally charge extra). All meals and drinks are included in the price, except for sodas and alcoholic beverages. I have a fifth of scotch in my backpack, however.

Hate me more?

I spent the day diving at Gordon´s Rock, off the east of Santa Cruz. This is considered the best spot in the central islands (exclusive of the tiny northern islands of Darwin and Wolf) in which to see hammerhead sharks, which frequently swim through in large schools. The diving is also considered the most challenging, with strong currents coming in against the jagged rocks from different directions. There were a total of eight divers with two divemasters. Half the group was very experienced (100 or many more dives) and half had approximately my level of experience (about 22 dives, give or take). The water was cold, the currents were extreme (even for the site, according to the divemaster), and the surface churned with foam as waves crashed against the sheer, vertical surface of the cliffs. They were by far the hardest dives I have been on, but it was worth it. I saw an enormous school of barracuda, two massive spotted eagle rays with wingspans in the 5-6 foot range and, on the far periphery of my vision but unmistakeable given the profile of its head, a shape ominous, sleek and muscular, some 7-10 feet in length. I won´t lie --- I was buffeted around by the currents, even 80 feet down, far too much for my liking. But I was told by a diver with 300 dives and over 10 years´experience under his belt that I was very unlikely to ever experience a dive this difficult again, even on a repeat dive at Gordon. Which means, in short, I will probably go back there to look for more hammerheads after the boat trip --- unless I see them during the boat trip, as I will be able to dive 4 or 5 times as we go.

What more? A lot, but little time to write it. Puerto Ayora has a surprising selection of shops and restaurants. I had read that I should not expect much but after two weeks spent on Utila, this town seems cosmopolitan by comparison. Until now, I have been paying $10 per night for my own room at the Lirio del Mar ("lily of the ocean"). The place is spotless although the shower is freezing. The seafood in Puerto Ayora costs more than in Quito, but is (this should come as no shock) much better. A plate of fresh grilled fish with fries and a salad runs about $4 to $5. Shrimp ceviche will set you back $7. Not "budget," but hardly a bad deal, given the quality.

That does it. Wish me a bon voyage (or not, if you hate me) and I´ll try to respond to e-mails and any new hate mail upon my return (the 12th, I think).