December 10, 2004

From my “Let’s Go” China travel book:
Changsha, a provincial city, embraces modernity but still wears its 3000-year old history proudly on its sleeve. From the tomb of a 2100 year old mummy to assorted Mao pilgrimage sights, this city offers plenty for any history buff. Changsha is not without aesthetic pleasures as well: the nearby Yuelu Mountain Scenic area boasts numerous natural sights, and in the city, massive construction has resulted in broad, tree-lined boulevards.

Lonely Planet says there were 5,719,100 people in Changsha in 2000 and English First’s website states there are now 8 million people living here. It’s a huge metropolis that at first glance reminds me of Toronto with its overpasses, high-rise buildings and traffic. Traveling north of my general living/working area you realize just how big this city is. There are traffic lights at the major intersections that are obeyed and no one crosses the double yellow line to differentiate between traffic going in the opposite direction. However, they do not stay in their lanes travelling in the same direction! Yes, four cars can easily fit across three lanes! They dodge in and out amongst the cars, trucks, buses, motorcycles, scooters, bicycles, taxis and pedestrians! You have to have nerves of steel to travel by taxi or bus or just close your eyes and hope for the best. Bigger streets have metal barriers and a lane for bicycles and pedestrians. Wow – someone was thinking with their brain! Another thing I had to get used to was no seatbelts in the back of cars. They only have them in the front seat and no one uses them except the odd taxi driver.

Lao Dong Road, where our apartment building is located, runs east from the river, passed our place and intersects with Furong Zhong Lu, another major street going north and south via a traffic circle. This is where we have to cross twice to get to EF (English First) that is kitty-corner to us. On our way to school we pass the spa, the bank, the 24 hr. market (convenience store with a Chinese clerk in training to go to Canada – just kidding) a few restaurants, an outdoor stand that sells dumplings and of course our friends, the cigarette people and their baby. I haven’t figured out if it’s their baby or their grandchild. Who knows? Kim has taught him how to give a “high five”. I’m not sure how old he is – about 1-1/2 or so. Not potty trained for sure. We saw him peeing in the street one day! Babies here wear no diapers. Their pants are split open at the back and they just go wherever. I saw a baby in a cart at the store standing up and you could see his bare bottom at the back. You would think their little tooshies would get cold! Really weird. Although I did see Pampers in the store……….so I’m not sure what that’s all about.

Just past that is an eyeglass store, Milo’s Coffee House, a sports/clothing/shoe store and a lady’s coat store. If we don’t cross at the circle you can continue around and there’s the bakery, a flower shop and a small restaurants where we go for dumplings. We cross over to the corner of A.Best and McDonalds. A.Best is a huge three level department store where you can buy just about anything including fresh foods to alcohol. McDonalds has a loud speaker outside and I laugh every time I hear the “I’m Loving It” jingle in Chinese. If you go inside they are constantly playing Christmas carols in English. A hostess is decked out in a red velvet dress with white fur trim and the traditional Santa hat. Cute! It was a little depressing eat a chicken burger and fries to the tune of Silent Night over and over and over…………..I said to Kim that if they knew the words and meaning in Chinese they probably wouldn’t play it. It goes against all the religious beliefs.

Another trip across the east side of the traffic circle and we are at EF which is in-between China Post and a furniture store that looks like it imported everything from IKEA. There are 63 steps up to the third floor which is EF. Yes, I have counted them. One day I went out for lunch with Steve and later over to A.Best with Kim so all in all I climbed those *&^% stairs three times! I am getting toned up people! Now I can climb then all at once without stopping and can almost keep up with Kim. I am still a little out of breath when I get there and the receptionist always laughs at me. Soon I will have it conquered. That’s my cardio and toning workout every day. Plus all the other walking we do. Once I have the stairs mastered (stair-master, get it?) I would like to take Tai Chi every morning with Kim. Her instructor is a 60 something lady about 4’ 6” who can’t speak a word of English. They interact by playing charades! Kim feels so pumped after her class and comes back up to the apartment feeling great. I am usually still in post-sleep mode and can’t get motivated. So, it might do me some good! Something to look forward to…………..if I can get my lazy you know what out of bed earlier.......

Back to the city…………the walk home after classes, usually around 9:30 pm is always in the dark. The sun rises and sets here about the same as Canada right now. This city never stops; the traffic is always busy (where the heck is everyone going?). To the north you can see the giant ferris wheel all lit up at night. I have never seen it move and no one I have asked has ever been on it. Another one of those things they saw and thought they just had to have? The lights at night are impressive and add to the ambience of the cityscape. I guess that’s a good enough reason.

Across from our apartment on the main street is a huge theatre complex. Apparently there are live shows there although once again I don’t know anyone who has ever been there. Jurgen ran into two actors at McDonalds from Kazakstan which is a country north of China and part of Russia. Now he wants to go! We are going to take one of the Chinese girls with us to the box office and check it out. Hmmm……maybe the Nutcracker for Christmas? There is a huge TV/Plasma screen outside that looks like it only shows commercials but it’s pretty cool.

Our apartment complex is tucked in behind the main street so we have to walk down a side road about 100 ft. to get to the main gate and the guards. The guards just got new uniforms, very snazzy. If they had the right hat they would look like Canadian Mounted Police without the horses. They take their job seriously and never smile. If you say “Nia hao” (hello) they will give you a little nod but that’s about it. Then it's past the guards, past the garden area and on to the entrance of our building.

There are speakers in the bushes that play loud elevator music. We haven’t figured out what the schedule is, that is if there is one. It’s either on or off at any given time of the day or night. I have been awakened before 8 am many mornings to a violin rendition of Stevie Wonder’s “I Just Called To Say I Love You.” That seems to be the first song on the tape that keeps playing over and over. Heather is trying to convince someone to cut the wires to a speaker just outside her bedroom window. So far no takers!

After living here for three weeks my impression has changed dramatically. At first I was overwhelmed by the people. I was constantly looking for things that they do different. Apart from the language and the food they are just normal everyday people going about their business. I would hear people on their cellphones and only hear the Chinese jibber-jabber. Now I realize they are talking to family and friends or their workplace. People are coming and going to work. Families are out shopping together. Parents bring their children to school for classes on the weekends, drop them off and pick them up. They come back with shopping bags. They are hustling and bustling on a schedule just like home. Kids use the phone at reception to call for their rides. Vendors on the streets are selling their wares to make ends meet. Couples go out for dinner. The teenagers hang out together and walk the street in groups. Older people have their canes with a little seat built in so it can be propped open at any time, any place. Everyone is doing their own thing and living life the same as anywhere else in the world.

There are three classes of people, the well-to-do, the middle class and the poor. The higher class people dress to the nines, hold down good jobs and drive cars. The middle class work harder, dress as fashionably as possible and take the bus or ride scooters and bicycles. The poor people struggle to make ends meet selling fruits and vegetables on the street. Many have steamers and hot pots with noodles and soup for sale. Baked yams are very popular. There are the shoe-shine ladies with their little stools and polish. And of course there are the beggars. Our street seems to have the same ones every day. They spot the foreigners and come running with their little plastic dishes that they shake in front of you. I have been told not to give them anything as they will hunt you down every day after that. We just say “mayo” which means nothing and keep walking. Some of them will keep up with you for 50 feet or more before they give up. Then there are the little children with their dirty hands and faces dressed in raggedy clothing. It is so hard to say no to them. I have heard, but not seen that they will latch onto your leg and won’t let go. I hope that never happens to me. One young girl always has her baby in a sling on her back. She looks so despondent. Steve will never give them money but sometimes he will give them food. That seems like a better idea, but I hate the fact that they would be there every day…….so far I have resisted.

So, China is the same as North America, you ask? With a few differences of course! Women and girls of all ages hold hands when they walk down the street. And I have seen a few men link arms. People stare at us constantly. I am getting used to that. My students tell me my hair is yellow………I prefer the word blonde. And I seem to be the only blonde for miles. Kim and Heather have brown hair and seem to blend in a little better than me. But I’m not about to change it. I brought enough colouring to last me most of the year!

Next entry will be our trip to check out the hotel for the Christmas party and pictures of my Monday-Wednesday adult class. Stay tuned!