Looking at the map for our next days travel revealed very few names of towns by the side of the road. Having learnt the lesson from the previous day about how difficult it can be to find somewhere to eat in this part of California, we stocked up with picnic fodder at the Safeway in Burney before setting off (quick learners us British - once bitten twice shy).

We set off in an east north easterly direction along the 299. The map showed we could cut off a significant corner by heading north at the town of Bieber rather than going on to Canby and then heading north. When we got to what we thought was the correct junction, we could not tell where the road went because there was no sign post. Undeterred we set off up the 'short cut' anyway. A few miles up the road was another junction totally absent from our map and totally lacking in any type of directional sign whatsoever. Having explorers blood in our veins we decided to resort to navigation by compass and not road map. The minivan we had rented had a compass display above the widscreen and we followed the nearest road to north.

The scenery was tranquil, farmland alternating with woodland, seemingly from a different era when............to our amazement........... a vintage car passed in the other direction full of people in period costume. As we confirmed with each other that it was not our imaginations another 4 or 5 vintage cars past in the other direction. Clearly there was some sort of ralley going on, but the wierd thing was that the road we were on really came from nowhere and went to nowhere. Do any of you know what event this might have been ? Many more cars past us including a number of old racing cars.

We eventually hit the 139 north and pretty soon reached Lava Beds National Monument. Its a desolate place and we did not see another vehicle until we pulled into the car park (parking lot) of the visitor centre. The main attraction of Lava Beds are the lava tubes. Tunnels of solidified lava that formed on the outside of rivers of lava which emptied when the lava stopped flowing. At the visitor centre there is a lava tube with electric lights in which is well worth exploring. All the other lava tubes require you to take in your own lights which can be hired from the visitor centre.

We picnicked in the picnic area by the Fleener Chimneys a roasting hot day and a beautiful spot. My boys and I scaled the lava hills to view the surrounding area and perr down the 150 foot deep chimneys from which the lava had spewed.

At the northern end of the Lava Beds Monument area on the shore of Lake Tule is Captain Jacks stronghold. This is an area of the lava beds where a band of 60 Modoc Indians (men women and children) holed up after fleeing a reservation. It took 600 US troops to get them out, and there is a trail you can walk through the natural fortifications Captain Jack (the Modoc Chief) and his people used.
Buy the guide for the area and at least walk the inner trail like we did. Its a thought provoking experience to imagine what went on.

Filled to the brim with the history of the old west we headed further north into Oregon and Klamath Falls. A splash in the motel pool with the kids and a wonderful meal in the local diner rounded off a memorable day