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September 18, 2005

Surf's up...but I'm not.

While Melody had duty today, our friend Ray and I attempted to learn how to surf. We borrowed two boards, and headed to Kamakura's beach. The sun was out, and the waves were quite forgiving...actually, almost too small. Here's how it went.

After a couple of quick pointers by our friends Lori and Kristin, both from Melody's work, and both of whom had surfed before with some degree of success, we hopped into the water. Then, we proceeded to do the following for about 2 hours.

Paddle around while lying on the surfboard. This is harder than it looks. Despite the fins on the bottom, it's not too stable, and constantly threatens to roll you off into the water.

Once you're out a little way, turn the board until you're facing the beach, and wait for your wave set.

As you wait, you wonder, "What sort of sharks live in the sea around Japan?" Then you notice that a good set has just passed you, and you missed it.

Wait some more.

Here comes a set. Lead it a little, and paddle like hell! Dang...missed it.

Repeat 4-6 times.

Notice that you're too close to the beach, turn around, and paddle back out to sea.

Spin to face the beach.

Wonder about sharks.

Fall off the board.

Get back on the board.

Miss your set.

Miss another one.

Miss another one.

Miss another one.

Feel the fins on the bottom of the board scrape the sand.

Paddle back out...


You get the idea. I managed to get my feet under me and almost stand up a couple of times, but never managed to actually catch a good wave simultaneously. I did get a good ride while laying on my stomach once, but that was it.

Still, in spite of the lack of success, the neck pain that comes from keeping your head off the board, and a bruised ribcage, it was a good way to spend the afternoon. I'm not sure I'll go and get a surfboard of my own, but it might be nice to get a body board or something.

At least we looked like we knew what we were doing OUT of the water!

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Posted by djf on September 18, 2005 05:04 PM
Category: Dave in Japan
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