I'm in Jaisalmer now, staying inside the fort--the only fort in India, I think, which still has people living inside. This is an amazing, magical place. I loved it within just a few hours, which is more than I can say for much of the rest of India! I've already been tweaking my itinerary, figuring out how long I can stay here. Internet access in India is a great challenge to my patience. I spent 30 minutes in Bikaner, in two different sessions, trying to check email the other day. I got as far as knowing that I had 32 new messages, but couldn't get into my inbox to read any of them! The power goes out whenever it feels like, and all the connections are dial-up--a brutal combination. I can guarantee there won't be pictures anytime soon; they're all going on CD for now. But it's been a great week, exploring forgotten cities and palaces and riding a camel through the desert and sleeping under the stars. More on that very soon!